Qhov txawv tshaj plaw headdresses ntawm Lavxias teb sab poj niam nyob rau hauv keeb kwm

2024 Tus sau: Seth Attwood | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 16:06

Nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm, headdress yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws thiab elegant daim ntawm ib tug poj niam lub costume. Nws tuaj yeem qhia ntau yam txog nws tus tswv - txog nws hnub nyoog, tsev neeg thiab kev sib raug zoo, thiab txawm tias nws muaj menyuam.

Nyob rau hauv Russia, cov ntxhais hnav ib qho yooj yim headbands thiab wreaths (crowns), tawm hauv lub crown thiab braid qhib. Nyob rau hnub tshoob, tus ntxhais lub braid yog unwound thiab pw ib ncig ntawm nws lub taub hau, uas yog, "twisted". Los ntawm no rite tau yug los ntawm kev qhia "tws tus ntxhais", uas yog, yuav nws rau koj tus kheej. Kev lig kev cai ntawm kev npog lub taub hau yog raws li lub tswv yim qub uas cov plaub hau absorbs lub zog tsis zoo. Txawm li cas los xij, tus ntxhais tuaj yeem pheej hmoo qhia nws txoj hlua khi rau cov neeg muaj peev xwm, tab sis tus poj niam plaub hau yooj yim coj kev txaj muag thiab kev txom nyem rau tag nrho tsev neeg. Styled "zoo li poj niam" cov plaub hau tau npog nrog lub hau khi rau sab nraub qaum ntawm lub taub hau - tus tub rog lossis cov plaub hau cab. Lub headdress tau hnav rau saum, uas, nyob rau hauv sib piv rau cov ntxhais, muaj ib tug complex tsim. Qhov nruab nrab, xws li ib daim muaj plaub mus rau kaum qhov detachable.

TXOJ CAI NTAWM RUSSIA SOUTH

Lub ciam teb ntawm Great Russia North thiab South tau khiav mus rau thaj tsam ntawm thaj av Moscow niaj hnub. Ethnographers ntaus nqi Vladimir thiab Tver rau sab qaum teb Russia, thiab Tula thiab Ryazan rau sab qab teb Russia. Moscow nws tus kheej tau cuam tshuam los ntawm kev coj noj coj ua ntawm ob cheeb tsam.

Cov poj niam peasant costume ntawm cov cheeb tsam yav qab teb yog qhov txawv ntawm sab qaum teb ib. Kev ua liaj ua teb sab qab teb yog ntau yam kev saib xyuas. Cov neeg ua liaj ua teb nyob ntawm no feem ntau nyob txom nyem dua li hauv Lavxias North, qhov chaw ua lag luam nrog cov tub lag luam txawv teb chaws tau ua haujlwm zoo. Kom txog rau thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, lub feem ntau ancient style ntawm Lavxias teb sab costume yog hnav nyob rau hauv lub yav qab teb Lavxias teb sab zos - ib tug checkered poneva (lub duav-ntev khaub ncaws zoo li ib tug tiab) thiab ib tug ntev lub tsho, lub dai kom zoo nkauj hem ntawm peeped los ntawm hauv qab. poneva. Nyob rau hauv silhouette, lub South Lavxias teb sab ib pab tub rog zoo li lub thoob; magpies thiab kichki tau ua ke nrog nws - headdresses uas txawv los ntawm ntau hom thiab complexity ntawm tsim.

KIKA HORNED

Lo lus "kika" los ntawm cov laus Slavonic "kyka" - "hair". Qhov no yog ib qho ntawm cov qub headdresses, uas rov qab mus rau cov dluab ntawm poj niam pagan deities. Nyob rau hauv lub tswv yim ntawm Slavs, horns yog lub cim ntawm fertility, yog li ntawd tsuas yog ib tug "poj niam laus" yuav hnav lawv. Hauv ntau thaj tsam, ib tug poj niam tau txais txoj cai hnav lub horned kiku tom qab yug me nyuam thawj zaug. Lawv hnav ncaws pob rau hnub ua haujlwm thiab hnub so. Txhawm rau tuav lub taub hau loj (cov horns tuaj yeem ncav cuag 20-30 centimeters hauv qhov siab), tus poj niam yuav tsum tau tsa nws lub taub hau siab. Qhov no yog li cas lo lus "boast" tshwm sim - taug kev nrog koj lub qhov ntswg.

Cov txiv plig nquag tawm tsam cov cwj pwm pagan: cov poj niam raug txwv tsis pub tuaj koom lub koom txoos hauv kev ncaws pob. Thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th, lub headdress no tau xyaum ploj mus ntawm lub neej txhua hnub, tab sis nyob rau hauv lub xeev Ryazan nws tau hnav mus txog rau thaum xyoo pua 20th. Txawm tias ib tug ditty tau ciaj sia:

KIKA HOOF-shaped

"Tib neeg" tau hais thawj zaug hauv ib daim ntawv los ntawm 1328. Piv txwv li, nyob rau lub sij hawm no, cov poj niam twb tau hnav tag nrho cov hom ntawm derivatives los ntawm horned kiki - nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm lub kaus mom bowler, paddle, roller. Loj hlob los ntawm ib tug horned thiab ib tug kitsch nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ib tug hoof los yog ib tug horseshoe. Lub taub hau tawv (hauv pliaj) tau npog nrog cov ntaub nplua nuj, feem ntau embroidered nrog kub. Nws tau txuas rau ntawm "cap" nrog ib txoj hlua los yog cov ntaub nplaum khi ib ncig ntawm lub taub hau. Zoo li tus nees nees dai saum lub qhov rooj, daim ntawv no tau tsim los tiv thaiv qhov muag phem. Txhua tus poj niam sib yuav hnav nws rau hnub so.

Txog thaum xyoo 1950, xws li "hooves" tuaj yeem pom ntawm lub zos kab tshoob kev kos hauv cheeb tsam Voronezh. Tawm tsam keeb kwm yav dhau ntawm cov xim dub thiab dawb - cov xim tseem ceeb ntawm Voronezh poj niam lub tsho - ncaws embroidered kub zoo li cov khoom kim tshaj plaws ntawm cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub. Ntau lub xyoo pua 19th hoof-zoo li ncaws pob tau muaj sia nyob, sau los ntawm Lipetsk mus rau Belgorod, uas qhia txog lawv qhov kev faib tawm thoob plaws hauv Central Black Earth Region.

FORTY TULA

Nyob rau hauv ntau qhov chaw ntawm Russia, tib headdress yog hu ua txawv. Yog li, niaj hnub no cov kws tshaj lij tsis tuaj yeem pom zoo rau qhov uas suav tias yog ncaws pob thiab dab tsi yog magpie. Tsis meej pem nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus, multiplied los ntawm ntau yam ntawm Lavxias teb sab headdresses, tau coj mus rau lub fact tias nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv, magpie feem ntau txhais tau tias ib tug ntawm cov ntsiab lus ntawm kiki thiab, conversely, lub kika yog to taub raws li ib feem ntawm cov magpie. Nyob rau hauv ib tug xov tooj ntawm cov cheeb tsam, txij li thaum txog lub xyoo pua 17th, ib tug magpie tshwm sim raws li ib tug ywj siab, complexly tsim ntawm ib tug poj niam sib yuav. Ib qho piv txwv zoo ntawm qhov no yog Tula magpie.

Justifying nws "noog" lub npe, magpie tau muab faib ua lateral seem - tis thiab rov qab - ib tug Tsov tus tw. Tus Tsov tus tw tau sewn nyob rau hauv ib lub voj voog ntawm pleated ntau xim ribbons, uas ua rau nws zoo li ib tug peacock. Ci rosettes rhymed nrog headdress, uas tau sewn nyob rau sab nraum qab ntawm tus pony. Cov poj niam hnav khaub ncaws zoo li no rau hnub so, feem ntau yog thawj ob lossis peb xyoos tom qab tshoob.

Yuav luag tag nrho cov magpies ntawm qhov kev txiav no khaws cia rau hauv cov tsev khaws puav pheej thiab cov khoom ntiag tug tau pom nyob rau thaj tsam ntawm Tula xeev.

TXOJ CAI NTAWM RUSSIA NORTH

Lub hauv paus ntawm cov poj niam sab qaum teb hnav khaub ncaws yog sundress. Nws yog thawj zaug hais nyob rau hauv Nikon Chronicle ntawm 1376. Thaum pib, sundresses, luv luv zoo li caftan, tau hnav los ntawm cov txiv neej noble. Tsuas yog los ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th ua lub sundress tau txais kev paub zoo thiab thaum kawg tsiv mus rau cov poj niam wardrobe.

Lo lus "kokoshnik" yog thawj zaug nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th. "Kokosh" nyob rau hauv Laus Lavxias teb sab txhais tau tias "nqaij qaib". Lub headdress tej zaum tau txais nws lub npe los ntawm nws zoo ib yam li qaib scallop. Nws hais txog cov duab peb sab silhouette ntawm sundress.

Raws li ib tug version, lub kokoshnik tshwm nyob rau hauv Russia nyob rau hauv tus ntawm lub Byzantine costume. Nws tau hnav feem ntau los ntawm cov poj niam zoo.

Tom qab kev hloov kho ntawm Peter kuv, uas txwv tsis pub hnav tsoos lub teb chaws costume ntawm cov nom tswv, sundresses thiab kokoshniks tseem nyob rau hauv lub wardrobe ntawm tub lag luam, burgers, thiab peasants, tab sis nyob rau hauv ib tug ntau yam ntawm version. Nyob rau hauv tib lub sij hawm, lub kokoshnik ua ke nrog cov sundress nkag mus rau yav qab teb cheeb tsam, qhov twg rau ib ntev lub sij hawm nws tseem yog ib tug outfits ntawm exceptionally nplua nuj poj niam. Kokoshniks tau dai kom zoo nkauj ntau dua li magpies thiab kiki: lawv tau txiav nrog pearls thiab bugles, brocade thiab velvet, braid thiab lace.

COV LUS (SAMSHURA, ROSE)

Ib qho ntawm feem ntau ntau yam headdresses ntawm lub 18th - 19th centuries muaj ntau lub npe thiab tailoring xaiv. Nws tau hais thawj zaug hauv cov ntawv sau ntawm xyoo pua 17th raws li samshura (shamshura). Tej zaum, lo lus no tau tsim los ntawm cov lus qhia "shamshit" lossis "shamkat" - hais lus tsis meej, thiab hauv kev xav - "rau crumple, nias". Nyob rau hauv phau ntawv txhais lus piav qhia ntawm Vladimir Dal, samshura tau txhais tias "Vologda headdress ntawm ib tug poj niam sib yuav."

Tag nrho cov headdresses ntawm hom no tau sib sau ua ke los yog "wrinkled" kaus mom. Ib tus nape qis, zoo ib yam li lub kaus mom, yog ib feem ntawm ib qho hnav ris tsho. Lub siab zoo saib zoo nkauj, zoo li phau ntawv kawm kokoshnik, thiab hnav rau hnub so. Kev sau txhua hnub tau sewn los ntawm cov ntaub uas pheej yig dua, thiab ib txoj phuam qhwv nws. Tus poj niam laus txoj kev muab tso ua ke yuav zoo li lub kaus mom dub yooj yim. Cov khaub ncaws festive ntawm cov tub ntxhais hluas tau them nrog gimped ribbons thiab embroidered nrog precious pob zeb.

Hom kokoshnik no tuaj ntawm sab qaum teb thaj tsam - Vologda, Arkhangelsk, Vyatka. Nws poob rau hauv kev hlub nrog cov poj niam nyob rau hauv Central Russia, xaus nyob rau hauv Western Siberia, Transbaikalia, thiab Altai. Lo lus nws tus kheej kis nrog cov khoom. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19, ntau hom headgear pib to taub nyob rau hauv lub npe "samshura" nyob rau hauv txawv xeev.

KOKOSHNIK PSKOVSKY (SHISHAK)

Pskov version ntawm kokoshnik, shishak tshoob headdress, muaj ib tug classic silhouette nyob rau hauv cov duab ntawm ib tug elongated daim duab peb sab. Cov pob uas muab nws lub npe cim fertility. Muaj ib lo lus hais tias: "Yuav muaj pes tsawg lub cones, ntau tus me nyuam."Lawv tau sewn rau pem hauv ntej ntawm shishak, dai nrog pearls. Ib lub hlaws mesh tau sewn raws ntug ntug - hauv qab. Nyob rau sab saum toj ntawm shishak, tus newlywed hnav ib lub tes tsho dawb embroidered nrog kub. Ib tug xws li kokoshnik nqi ntawm 2 mus rau 7 txhiab rubles nyob rau hauv cov nyiaj, yog li ntawd nws tau khaws cia nyob rau hauv tsev neeg raws li ib tug relics, dhau los ntawm niam mus rau ib tug ntxhais.

Pskov kokoshnik tau txais qhov nrov tshaj plaws nyob rau hauv 18th - 19th centuries. Cov headdresses tsim los ntawm cov craftswomen ntawm lub Toropets koog tsev kawm ntawv ntawm lub xeev Pskov yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nto moo. Yog li ntawd, shishaks feem ntau hu ua toropets kokoshniks. Ntau cov duab ntawm cov ntxhais hauv pearls tau muaj sia nyob, uas ua rau thaj tsam no nto moo.

TVERSKAYA "KABLUCHOK"

Lub cylindrical "pob luj" nyob rau hauv vogue nyob rau thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th thiab thoob plaws hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19. Qhov no yog ib qho ntawm feem ntau thawj ntau yam ntawm kokoshnik. Lawv hnav nws nyob rau hnub so, yog li ntawd lawv sewed los ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav, velvet, kub lace, thiab decorated nrog pob zeb. Ib lub hlaws dav hauv qab tau hnav hauv qab "pob taws", zoo ib yam li lub kaus mom me me. Nws npog tag nrho lub taub hau, vim hais tias lub compact headdress nws tus kheej tsuas yog them rau saum lub taub hau. "Kabluchok" tau dav heev nyob rau hauv lub xeev Tver uas nws tau los ua ib yam ntawm "mus xyuas daim npav" ntawm cheeb tsam. Cov kws ua yeeb yam uas ua haujlwm nrog cov ntsiab lus "Lavxias teb sab" muaj qhov tsis muaj zog tshwj xeeb rau nws. Andrei Ryabushkin piav txog ib tug poj niam nyob rau hauv lub Tver kokoshnik painting "Sunday Day" (1889). Ib qho hnav ris tsho zoo li no tau piav qhia hauv "Portrait ntawm tus poj niam ntawm cov tub lag luam Obraztsov" (1830) los ntawm Alexei Venetsianov. Nws kuj tau pleev xim rau nws tus poj niam Martha Afanasyevna Venetsianov nyob rau hauv cov khaub ncaws ntawm Tver tub lag luam tus poj niam nrog lub indispensable "pob taws" (1830).

Thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, complex headdresses thoob plaws Russia pib muab txoj kev rau shawls uas zoo li ib tug ancient Lavxias teb sab headdress - ubrus. Cov kev lig kev cai ntawm tying ib headscarf tau khaws cia txij li thaum Nrab Hnub nyoog, thiab thaum lub sij hawm heyday ntawm industrial weaving nws tau txais lub neej tshiab. Factory shawls, woven los ntawm high-quality kim threads, tau muag txhua qhov chaw. Raws li kev lig kev cai qub, cov poj niam sib yuav tau hnav headscarves thiab shawls tshaj tus tub rog, ua tib zoo npog lawv cov plaub hau. Cov txheej txheem ua haujlwm ntawm kev tsim ib lub taub hau tshwj xeeb, uas tau dhau los ntawm ib tiam dhau ib tiam, tau poob rau hauv oblivion.