Cov qhob cij zoo li cas Russians tau tsim nyob rau hauv Nruab Nrab Hnub nyoog? Kneading thiab ci technology

2024 Tus sau: Seth Attwood | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 16:06

Lavxias teb sab neeg ua liaj ua teb, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv nws keeb kwm cheeb tsam - lub Non-Dub ntiaj teb cheeb tsam - mus txog rau thaum lub xyoo pua nees nkaum, yog ib txwm xav tau kev pab. Nws lub rooj yog qhov pov thawj zoo tshaj plaws ntawm qhov no. Lub hauv paus ntawm zaub mov rau peasants yog rye qhob cij.

Vim tsis muaj sij hawm rau cov poj niam, nws tau ci ib zaug ib lub lim tiam. Lub khob cij feem ntau tsis zoo - nyoos los yog, hloov pauv, ci, uas ua rau mob plab. Feem ntau tsis muaj hmoov nplej txaus los pub rau tsev neeg, thiab tom qab ntawd lawv ci ersatz qhob cij - nrog ntoo thuv tawv ntoo lossis quinoa. Sib nrug los ntawm qhob cij, assortment ntawm lub rooj yog tsawg: collard zaub, turnips, ntses thiab nceb.

Ib qho ntawm cov kev txwv tseem ceeb ntawm kev noj qab haus huv ntawm Lavxias teb sab peasants yog lub caij sov sov. Rau 130-140 hnub hauv ib xyoos, cov neeg ua liaj ua teb yuav tsum muaj sijhawm los npaj cov av rau kev cog qoob loo, nqa haymaking, thiab sau qoob. Yog hais tias muaj 1-2 tus neeg ua haujlwm hauv tsev neeg, nws muaj peev xwm ua kom cov av muaj txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm thaj tsam ntawm tsuas yog 2.5 hectares, thiab tsis zoo - ntawm 3.5 hectares. Txawm li cas los xij, ob qho tib si los ntawm qhov ntawd thiab los ntawm lwm qhov chaw lawv tau sau tsuas yog 3-4, feem ntau nws yog kwv yees li 60-70 poods ntawm rye, barley thiab oats. Ntawm tus nqi ntawm 12 pob nplej ntawm ib tus neeg, cov qoob loo tsuas yog NW nyuam qhuav txaus rau ib tsev neeg nruab nrab ntawm 6 tus neeg nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawd. Tus nees yuav tsum tau noj nrog oats thaum lub sijhawm ua haujlwm nyuaj.

Lub sijhawm tsis muaj sijhawm cia tsuas yog ib tug nees, ib tug nyuj thiab ob peb tug yaj los ua quav nyab npaj. Tsawg tus tsiaj hauv tsev coj mus rau qhov tsis txaus ntawm cov quav chiv - lub ntsiab chiv ntawm lub sijhawm. Me quav chiv - tsawg tawm los. Feem ntau ntawm Lavxias teb sab peasants tsis tswj kom ua txhaum no "vious vajvoog" mus txog rau thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua nees nkaum.

Tag nrho cov no tau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv kev noj haus ntawm Lavxias teb sab peasants: feem ntau, lawv noj monotonous thiab feem ntau tsis zoo. Zaub mov, grey (collard), turnips, nceb thiab ntses. Lawv suav txog 80-90% ntawm cov khoom noj. Nyob rau hauv lem, rau rye qhob cij - mus txog 60% calories. Tab sis txawm tias lub khob cij no nyob deb ntawm qhov zoo thiab saj los ntawm qhov peb paub rye qhob cij niaj hnub no. Tus kws sau keeb kwm Leonid Milov sau txog dab tsi Lavxias teb sab khob cij zoo li nyob rau hauv Nrab Hnub nyoog nyob rau hauv nws phau ntawv "Lub Great Lavxias teb sab Plowman" (tej zaum qhov zoo tshaj plaws kev lag luam thiab keeb kwm kev kawm ntawm medieval peasantry nyob rau hauv Russia).

Bread kneading thiab ci technology

Cov kab lis kev cai ntawm rye qhob cij ci tau hloov zuj zus mus rau ntau pua xyoo, thiab los ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th nws yog qhov zoo li hauv qab no. Lub khob cij nyob rau hauv ib lub qhov cub Lavxias tsis tau ci txhua hnub, tab sis tsuas yog ib zaug ib lub lim tiam, rau cov poj niam cov neeg pluag tsis muaj lwm txoj hauv kev. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws tau ntseeg tias cov qhob cij ci tshiab yog "hnyav" thiab tsis zoo rau lub plab. Ib pob ntawm khob noom cookie feem ntau yog tshuav ntawm txhua pastry - lub thiaj li hu ua "leaven". Cov kab no tau khaws cia tuab hauv cov hmoov nplej hauv qhov chaw tsaus. Txee lub neej yog txog li ob lub lis piam. Sourdough yog kneaded los ntawm rye hmoov hauv dej. Rau kev ceev ceev, qee zaum kvass tau ntxiv. Es tsis txhob leaven rau mov paj, lawv coj brewer cov poov xab, kneaded nrog hmoov thiab fermented nyob rau hauv ib tug sov so qhov chaw.

Yog li ntawd, lub leaven yog muab tso rau hauv ib tug sourdough, qhov twg hmoov twb poured thiab ib lub qhov yog npaj nyob rau hauv nruab nrab: rau ib lub pob ntawm leaven. Tom qab ntawd cov dej kub yog nchuav mus rau cov hmoov nplej ntawm qhov kub siab uas txhais tes tuaj yeem zam tau. Lub khob noom cookie yog huv si, siv tsuas yog ib feem peb ntawm cov hmoov nplej nyob rau hauv lub khob noom cookie. Tom qab tau txais ib qho "me ntsis steep mov", nws yog raked mus rau hauv nruab nrab thiab npog nrog ib tug tuab canvas, npog nrog hmoov rau saum thiab npog nrog ib tug hau. Nyob rau lub caij ntuj no, lawv tseem npog nrog lub tsho tiv no thiab sauerkraut nyob ze ntawm qhov cub. Cov neeg ua teb ua txhua yam haujlwm no thaum yav tsaus ntuj, tawm hauv lub khob noom cookie kom txog thaum sawv ntxov.

Thaum sawv ntxov, lub khob noom cookie nws tus kheej yog kneaded: lawv rub tawm cov hmoov nplej, tshem tawm cov ntaub pua plag thiab ncuav dej kub dua ("kom txhais tes ua siab ntev") rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm cov poov xab. Do kom huv si tsis txhob tawm hauv pob lossis pob. Tom qab ntawd lawv "knead" tag nrho cov hmoov nplej, tso tseg tsuas yog ib feem ntawm cov hmoov nplej kom yob cov ncuav lawv tus kheej. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, lawv xyuas kom tsis txhob tos tawm cov tshuaj thiab tsis ua kom tuab nrog cov hmoov nplej ntau dhau. Tom qab ntawd lub khob noom cookie yog npog nrog ib lub rooj ntaub (thaum lub caij ntuj no nws yog thawj rhuab) thiab ib yam dab tsi sov rau saum thiab sab laug rau ib teev thiab ib nrab.

Lub khob noom cookie tiav lawm yog xyuas seb nws puas tau nce zoo (tso lub nrig hauv lub khob noom cookie mus rau hauv qab thiab sai sai tshem tawm: lub khob noom cookie yuav tsum "theem" ntawm nws tus kheej). Tsis tas li ntawd, thaum lub qhov cub sov, lub khob cij yog dov los ntawm lub khob noom cookie thiab npog nrog ntaub. Txhawm rau kom tsis txhob lwj cov duab ntawm cov loaves, muab cov kav ntoo ntawm cov loaves. Ib feem ntawm lub khob noom cookie yog sab laug rau yav tom ntej "neav".

Tom qab ntawd lawv rub tawm cov coals los ntawm lub qhov cub kub kub, tawm hauv ib pawg me me ntawm lub qhov ncauj ntawm lub qhov cub, cheb nws kom huv si hauv qab lub qhov cub thiab kaw rau lub sijhawm luv luv nrog lub damper "kom lub tshav kub ploj" nruab nrab). Cov khob cij yog ci: li peb teev - sieve, txog plaub teev - sieve (sieve bread - los ntawm hmoov, winnowed los ntawm ib tug sieve, thiab sieve - los ntawm ib tug sieve). Thaum lub khob cij ci, lawv kos txhua daim los ntawm tapping lub hauv qab crust nrog ib tug ntiv tes: lub khob cij yuav tsum "ntiv nplhaib". Tom qab tshem tawm cov khob cij, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog los muab tso rau ntawm ntug, "lub shtob txav mus thiab softened thaum txias." Nws tsis pom zoo kom muab cov khob cij npaj ua kub rau hauv qhov "stale place". Lub khob cij txias tau muab khaws cia, raws li txoj cai, nyob rau hauv qhov chaw txias (piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv ib qho tshwj xeeb tub ntawm cellar, thiaj li tsis mus rau moldy).

Deviations los ntawm tus qauv

Tau kawg, feem ntau tau muaj ntau yam kev sib txawv ntawm qhov zoo tshaj plaws ci txheej txheem hauv lub neej. Piv txwv li, yog hais tias ib tug poj niam ua liaj ua teb ua rau lub "nplooj" txias heev, ces lub khob cij yuav xaus rau hauv pob. Ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, yog tias "nplooj" kub dhau, ces lub khob cij tawm los nyuaj thiab nyuaj. Thaum lub khob noom cookie ntawm ib tug sluggish hostess permeates lub khob noom cookie, lub khob cij tig tawm mus ua nyias, nws cov duab diffuses (muaj mob heev nyob rau hauv lub plab los ntawm nws). Yog hais tias ib tug neeg ua liaj ua teb ua rau lub qhov cub kub heev, lub khob cij yuav hlawv tawm rau saum, tab sis sab hauv nws yuav nyob twj ywm unbaked, "rough". Ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, hauv qhov cub tsis muaj zog, lub khob cij tsis ci, tab sis tsuas yog qhuav, "poob nws lub zog", thiab ua nplaum sab hauv. Thaum tus tswv tsev maj nrawm, NW nyuam qhuav kneading lub khob noom cookie, sai sai dov lub breads thiab muab tso rau hauv lub qhov cub ("kom tshem tau sai li sai tau"), lub crust ntawm lub khob cij swells, thiab nws crumb yuav muaj zog thiab unleavened (nws. dag hauv plab "zoo li txhuas").

Nyob rau hauv lub neej tiag tiag, muaj ntau zaus thaum lub whims ntawm xwm nyob rau hauv lub ntsej muag ntawm huab cua phem, los nag thaum lub sij hawm sau lub sij hawm ua rau lub fact tias cov nplej germinated, deterioration, los yog, conversely, tsis ripen. Raws li qhov tshwm sim, cov hmoov nplej tau los ua nplaum thiab "malty", thiab lub khob noom cookie "kho tawm, tsis sawv zoo". Yog li ntawd, qhob cij tsis ci thiab, qhov tseeb, tsuas yog tsis noj qab haus huv.

Yuav kom tsis txhob raug tshuaj lom los ntawm cov qhob cij no thiab tsis txhob kis kab mob loj, cov kev paub nrov tau tsim tag nrho cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua kom tsis muaj hmoov nplej los ntawm cov nplej zoo li no. Cov nplej ntawm hom no, ntxiv rau kom ziab nws hauv sheaves, yuav tsum tau muab kom qhuav dua hauv qhov cub hauv cov khoom me me. Cov hmoov nplej los ntawm cov nplej no tsis tau ntim nruj rau hauv tubs nrog cov khoom me me, zoo li ua nrog cov hmoov nplej zoo tib yam, tab sis nws tau khaws cia "hmoov", uas yog, hauv daim ntawv nplawm, xoob, fluffy. Ua ntej kneading, fermented hmoov yog dua qhuav nyob rau hauv qhov cub. Thaum sib tov tsawg dua li niaj zaus, dej kub yog nchuav. Thiab ntxiv ntau kvass tuab los yog cia li noj ntau dua qub sourdough (uas yog, qaub mov paj). Ntsev kuj tau ntxiv ntau dua li niaj zaus: ntawm plaub-thooj hmoov (kwv yees li 13 kg) - 4 handfuls ntsev txhua. Lub kneading yuav tsum ua acidic ntau, yog li nws yog qhwv li sov dua li niaj zaus. Ntxiv cov hmoov nplej ntxiv rau hauv lub khob noom cookie, ua rau lub khob noom khov heev, thiab thaum kneading nws "lawv tsis cia lawv txhais tes."

Thiab dua tawm lub khob noom cookie kom nws sawv zoo. Cov khob cij me me thiab "nyias". Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog tias cov qhob cij me me yog ci los ntawm cov hmoov nplej, vim lawv pwm sai heev. Qee lub sij hawm ntxuav sieved tshauv ntxiv rau hauv dej rau kneading (ib lub hnab ntawm tshauv yog raus hauv dej).

Cov qhob cij qias neeg thiab tsim kev puas tsuaj

Sprouted los yog greenish rye qhob cij tsis yog tib qhob cij uas tsis zoo. Feem ntau nws tsis yooj yim sua kom cais cov nplej ntawm rye los ntawm ergot los ntawm ib qho kev sib txawv. Cov hmoov nplej nrog ergot yog xiav, tsaus, tsw phem. Lub khob cij los ntawm nws kuj kis tau, thiab lub khob cij poob sib nrug. Tab sis nyob rau hauv Russia, pom tau hais tias vim tsis muaj sij hawm txaus, ergot tau tso rau hauv hmoov, uas yog, nws yog "tsis muab pov tseg ntawm rye nplej, lawv yog av ua ke." Nyob rau hauv cov cheeb tsam yav qab teb ntawm Russia, thaum sib tsoo nplej, smut tseem tshuav, uas tseem nyob deb ntawm tsis muaj mob.

Thaum kawg, cov nplej ntawm cov cheeb tsam yav qab teb steppe feem ntau thiab ntau tsuas tau txais cov hmoov av dub hauv ntiaj teb. Drukovtsev sau hais tias "Nyob rau hauv lub steppe chaw," hais tias nyob rau hauv lub hauv av yog dub, yog tsis muaj hmoov nplej dawb, yog li ntawd cov hmoov av dub, lo rau ib lub voj voog ntawm nplej, los ua ke nyob rau hauv lub rauj. yog phem thiab iab." Tsis tas li ntawd, cov dej ntws uas cov qhob cij tau threshed feem ntau yog av, thiab ntawm no cov nplej tau ntxiv nrog ib txheej tuab, ruaj khov ntawm cov plua plav dub, uas tsis tuaj yeem ntxuav txhua lub sijhawm. Yog li, los ntawm qhov no, cov neeg ua liaj ua teb cov nplej nplej feem ntau yog xim dub, thiab tag nrho cov no tau nkag mus rau hauv lub khob cij.

Kev dag dag dag: " tshaib plab"

Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo ntawm kev tshaib kev nqhis, cov neeg peasantry tau dav siv txhua yam kev dag ntawm qhob cij nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ntau yam, thiab tej zaum kuj txaus ntshai, nyob rau hauv peb lub tswv yim, additives rau rye hmoov. Ntawm cov benign tshaj plaws, yog li hais, tsis muaj teeb meem rau kev noj qab haus huv yog cov nyom nyom quinoa. Nws siv tau paub los ntawm ntau qhov chaw. A. T. Bolotov, tshwj xeeb, taw qhia tias nyob rau hauv lub xeev Tula. nyob rau hauv lub xyoo ntawm kev tshaib kev nqhis, "tag nrho cov cheeb tsam tau noj nrog noob." Nws kuj tau tshaj tawm tias nyob rau hauv lub xeev Nizhny Novgorod. nrog cov qoob loo tsis zoo, ntau (peasants) "hloov qhov tsis muaj onago (uas yog, qhob cij) nrog cov noob ntawm cov nyom ntawm quinoa." Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th. quinoa tau txais lub koob meej tu siab ntawm "thib ob qhob cij". Lawv ua hmoov nplej los ntawm cov noob ntawm quinoa thiab "sib xyaw nrog ib qho ntawm cov hmoov nplej, lawv ci ncuav."

Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo hnyav ntawm kev tshaib kev nqhis, nyob rau hauv ib tug xov tooj ntawm cov cheeb tsam ntawm Russia, tsis muaj txawm ib tug quinoa. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv lub xeev Arkhangelsk, thaum tsis muaj hmoov nplej txaus, lawv pounded ntoo thuv bark thiab Vakhka nyom. Hauv lub xeev Olonets uas nyob sib ze. Cov qhob cij tsis txaus yuav luag tas mus li: "Cov khob cij huv huv tag nrho, tshwj tsis yog rau hauv cheeb tsam Kargopol, tau noj los ntawm cov neeg hauv zos, tsis suav nrog cov neeg nplua nuj, - txog lub Peb Hlis thiab Plaub Hlis.), Pine bark yog tov nrog rye thiab barley hmoov, rau hauv crushed hmoov, uas, tau raug tshem tawm los ntawm tsob ntoo, yog qhuav nyob rau hauv lub caij ntuj sov nyob rau hauv lub hnub thiab, tau ntxuav lub Upper dub txheej, lawv phaus thiab knead lub mov paj, ntxiv. ob peb rye thiab barley hmoov."

Raws li nyob rau hauv lub xeev Arkhangelsk, ntawm no "nyob rau hauv ntau lub toj ntxas ntawm lub Povenets koog tsev kawm ntawv, lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav ncuav mog qab zib yog ci los ntawm cov hauv paus hniav hu ua vekhki, uas yog tov nrog mov ci. Peb lub hlis twg ntawm ib lub arshin (c. 54 cm). Cov nplooj zoo ib yam li birch, thaum pib ntawm caij nplooj ntoos hlav, cov neeg hauv zos rub tawm nws cov hauv paus hniav, qhuav nws thiab pounded rau hauv hmoov. cov inhabitants, accustomed mus rau noj lawv nyob rau hauv kev xav tau, noj yam tsis muaj kev txaj muag thiab kev puas tsuaj loj ".

Cov txiaj ntsig ntawm kev noj zaub mov zoo li no, tau noj hauv Russia ntau dua lossis tsawg dua tsis tu ncua, tsis paub meej: "cov neeg ua liaj ua teb tsis muaj zog thiab tsis muaj peev xwm ua haujlwm."

Nyob rau hauv Central Russia, xws li ntxiv rau rye hmoov raws li wheatgrass kuj nrov (nws cov hauv paus hniav yuav tsum tau ntxuav, qhuav nyob rau hauv ntxoov ntxoo, crumbled, qhuav dua nyob rau hauv qhov cub, hauv av thiab ntxiv rau rye hmoov - rau peb rye quadruples, ib tug wheatgrass paus. plaub). Burdock keeb kwm kuj tau ntxiv (ntxuav, crumble, qhuav nyob rau hauv lub hnub, zuaj thiab ntxiv sauerkraut rau batch). Qee zaum hemp lossis flaxseed ncuav, thiab lwm yam ntxiv.

Thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua, active propaganda ntawm ib tug tshiab, heev heev "khoom noj khoom haus hloov" nyob rau hauv lub xyoo tshaib plab - qos yaj ywm - pib. Nws raug pom zoo kom muab tso rau hauv boiled thiab peeled ncaj qha mus rau hauv lub khob noom cookie kneading kom nws (dough) ua tuab heev. Tom qab ntawd, raws li niaj zaus, lub khob noom cookie yog kneaded thiab breads yog ci. Xws li cov khob cij, raws li lawv paub nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 18th, "yog whiter dua li ib txwm rye, tsis sai tig stale, yog txaus siab, thiab ntxiv mus, nws yuav txuag tau mus txog ib nrab ntawm cov ntim ntawm rye hmoov." Tab sis kev paub ntawm Lavxias teb sab peasantry nrog qos yaj ywm stretched rau ntau, ntau xyoo lawm.

Noj tiag rye qhob cij yog ib qho tseem ceeb qhia txog kev noj qab haus huv ntawm cov neeg pluag. Thaum cov tib neeg xav hais txog qhov kev vam meej no, lawv tau sau tias: "Lawv cov zaub mov muaj nyob rau hauv cov mov ci ntshiab."