Kisselny ntug dej hiav txwv

2024 Tus sau: Seth Attwood | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 16:06

Nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cuisine, muaj dav paub tais diav (cab zaub qhwv, porridge, pancakes) thiab muaj ib ntus tsis nco qab lawm sawv daws yuav (kali, kundyum, levash). Kissels yog nyob ntawm kev sib tshuam ntawm ob hom no: thaum tseem tshuav ib hom zaub mov Lavxias, lawv tsis tshua tau npaj raws li thawj cov zaub mov txawv. "Cov dej ntws ntawm cov mis nyuj, jelly banks" - ironically hais txog kev noj qab haus huv zoo, tsis xav txog yuav ua li cas koj tuaj yeem tsim cov tsev txhab nyiaj los ntawm cov kua jelly niaj hnub no. Nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, nyob rau hauv lub teb chaws Russia, muaj ib tug tshwj xeeb zaub mov qab no zaj lus piv txwv: lub hardened oatmeal jelly raug txiav mus rau hauv pieces thiab noj nrog mis nyuj.

Raws li "Tale ntawm Bygone Xyoo" (XII caug xyoo), jelly tau suav nrog hauv kev noj haus ntawm Russians twb nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua X. Cov ntawv sau piav qhia txog kev ua tub rog siv hauv 997 los ntawm cov neeg nyob hauv Belgorod thaum lub sij hawm siege ntawm Pechenegs. Tus txiv neej laus laus tau hais kom cov neeg tshaib plab Belgorodians npaj cov mash rau jelly los ntawm "oats, nplej los yog bran" thiab khawb lub lauj kaub nrog rau hauv av. Hauv qhov dej thib ob, lawv muab tso rau hauv ib lub kadi nrog dej puv, sweetened nrog zib mu. Cov Pechenegs tau raug caw tuaj sib tham, ua noj jelly nyob rau hauv lawv lub xub ntiag thiab kho lawv nrog rau cov khoom noj zoo, yog li qhia tau hais tias nws tsis muaj txiaj ntsig los txuas ntxiv lub siege - "Peb muaj ntau dua los noj hauv av." Lub etymology tseem qhia txog keeb kwm yav dhau los ntawm jelly los ntawm cov hmoov nplej: cov lus "qaub" thiab "jelly" yog cognate thiab muaj feem xyuam rau lo lus "kvass". Tsis zoo li unleavened pea jelly, oatmeal, rye thiab hom qoob mog jelly tau muab tso rau hauv khob noom cookie los yog sourdough, thiab yog li ntawd muaj qaub saj.

Ib txwm jelly ntawm qos yaj ywm starch pib nkag mus rau Lavxias teb sab lub neej nyob rau thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th - pib ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, tab sis lawv tau dhau los ua thoob plaws hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19. Lub assimilation ntawm qos yaj ywm hmoov los ntawm Lavxias teb sab cuisine raws li ib tug tshiab thickener ua rau ib tug natural kev loj hlob ntawm cov zaub mov kev lig kev cai. Daim ntawv qhia thawj thiab nrov tshaj plaws yog cranberry jelly, uas tau los ua kev sib txuas ntawm cov nplej thiab qos yaj ywm hmoov jelly. Tseem tshuav jelly nyob rau hauv thawj lub ntsiab lus ntawm lo lus (cranberry yog ib tug qaub berry), nws koom nyob rau hauv ib tug tshiab ntau yam ntawm no tais - jelly on starch, ntau yam uas yuav tsis qaub, tab sis qab zib. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, qos yaj ywm jelly tseem yog ib lub tais: lawv tau ua kom tuab heev thiab ua haujlwm txias nrog mis nyuj (almond lossis nyuj) lossis qab zib.

Oatmeal thiab lwm yam cereal jelly

Hauv "sketches ntawm pej xeem kev zoo nkauj" "Lad" (1982), Vasily Belov hu ua oatmeal jelly "cov zaub mov nyiam Lavxias." Cov zaub mov no tau nkag mus rau hauv cov qauv ntawm cov lus Lavxias thiab lus Lavxias teb sab: oatmeal jelly tau hais hauv cov dab neeg ("Geese-Swans", "Peb Lub Nceeg Vaj", "Hiav Txwv Tsar thiab Vasilisa the Wise"), cov nkauj pej xeem, cov paj lug. thiab lus.

Cov seem ntawm sifted oat hmoov (sowing) yog poured nrog dej nyob rau yav tsaus ntuj thiab fermented; thaum sawv ntxov, lub infusion yog strained thiab boiled kom txog thaum thickened. Nplej thiab rye jelly tau npaj zoo ib yam li mis nyuj lossis dej. Ib qho cuab yeej nyuaj me ntsis cuam tshuam nrog kev siv ripe (los ntawm "drain"): bran los yog unseeded hmoov tau fermented, ncuav nrog dej thiab sab laug rau ob peb hnub, hloov cov dej, uas yog ntau thiab ntau pob tshab. Qhov no yog li cas cov lus hais txog cov txheeb ze nyob deb tau yug los - "lub xya dej ntawm jelly". Feem ntau jelly tau siav los ntawm raw ripe, tab sis daim ntawv qhia kom qhuav nws kom tau "jelly hmoov" kuj tau khaws cia. Lawv kuj tuaj yeem boil nplej jelly thiab ua noj rau lawv nrog rip tsis muaj fermentation theem - cov zaub mov zoo li no tau muab, piv txwv li, hauv "Ruskoy Povarna" (1816) los ntawm Vasily Levshin.

"Kub jelly thickened ua ntej peb ob lub qhov muag," sau Vasily Belov, "koj yuav tsum noj nws - tsis txhob yaim. Lawv tau noj nrog rye qhob cij, seasoning nrog qaub cream los yog zaub roj. Lub txias jelly khov, thiab nws tuaj yeem txiav nrog rab riam. Los ntawm ib lub lauj kaub sib kis, lawv yuav ntim nws mus rau hauv ib lub tais loj thiab nchuav nrog mis nyuj los yog wort. Cov zaub mov zoo li no tau muab rau thaum kawg ntawm pluas noj, raws li lawv hais tias, "ntau tshaj." Txawm tias tus neeg noj zaub mov zoo tshaj plaws tau yuam kom tsawg kawg noj ib khob … ". Qhov no yog qhov uas cov paj lug "Kissel thiab Tsar yeej ib txwm muaj qhov chaw" los ntawm - nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cov neeg pluag zaub mov, oatmeal jelly tau suav hais tias yog ib tug delicacy. Nyob rau hauv lub version ua los ntawm cov kws ua zaub mov, nws tau txais kev pab "nrog zib mu nourishment, los yog almond mis nyuj, los yog txiv ntseej butter."

Muaj ib lub tais zoo sib xws hauv German cuisine - Haferschleim, uas tau ua lub luag haujlwm paub zoo hauv Lavxias cov ntaub ntawv. Xyoo 1816, cov tub ntxhais hluas romantic Vasily Zhukovsky tau txhais Johann-Peter Gebel's idyll "Oatmeal jelly" (Das Habermuß hauv Alemannic German), qhov khoom noj no cim lub neej nyob deb nroog: "Cov me nyuam, oatmeal jelly ntawm lub rooj; nyeem ib lo lus thov; / Zaum ntsiag to, tsis txhob qias neeg lub tes tsho thiab tsis txhob cuam tshuam hauv lub lauj kaub; / Noj: txhua yam khoom plig rau peb yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws thiab muab txoj koob hmoov ", thiab lwm yam. Cov paj huam tau txais kev nyeem dav dav, dhau los ua ib qho kev ua haujlwm ntawm kev tawm tsam Lavxias teb sab romanticism, nrog rau tus yam ntxwv ntawm qhov kev xav no rau lub tebchaws.

Oatmeal jelly nrog cov khoom noj zoo yog cov zaub mov memorial, uas tau txais kev pab ntawm qhov kawg ntawm lub rooj. Nyob rau hauv lub peev xwm no, nws tau rov pom dua nyob rau hauv cov tshiab los ntawm Pavel Melnikov-Pechersky "Nyob rau hauv Ntoo" (1871-1874): "Nikitishna siav ntau yam kissel: nplej nrog almond mis nyuj rau cov qhua, oatmeal nrog zib mu pub rau ntawm txoj kev.." Lub Bolshoi, Maly thiab Nizhniy Kiselny txoj kab uas twb muaj lawm nyob rau hauv Moscow yog echoes ntawm Kiselny Sloboda, uas nyob ze Sretensky, Leej niam ntawm Vajtswv-Rozhdestvensky thiab lub Varsonofievsky monasteries puas los ntawm lub Soviet tsoom fwv. Qhov kev sib hais haum tau nyob hauv kisselniks uas ua jelly rau kev ua koob tsheej.

Ib lub tais ntawm cov neeg pluag zaub mov ze rau nplej jelly yog salamata - "kua unleavened jelly los ntawm cov hmoov nplej", raws li Melnikov-Pechersky txhais nws. Txawm li cas los xij, oatmeal thiab lwm yam jelly ua los ntawm cov hmoov nplej tsis tsuas yog lub cim ntawm cov neeg nyob hauv tsev neeg lub neej: nyob rau hauv cov ntawv qhia zaub mov ntawm cov tub ntxhais kawm thiab gymnasium cov tub ntxhais kawm ntawm Academy of Sciences, tau pom zoo los ntawm Mikhail Lomonosov xyoo 1761, oat jelly nrog noj zoo yog tam sim no nyob rau hauv. ntu "Jelly".

Pea jelly

Lwm cov zaub mov qub Lavxias yog pea jelly. Nws tau npaj txawm yooj yim dua li oatmeal: pea hmoov yog brewed nrog dej, tsis txhob tsim cov lumps, coj mus rau ib tug boil, ncuav rau hauv lub tais thiab txias. Raws li Vasily Belov sau tseg, “Cia li hlub nws heev, lawv tau noj nws kub thiab txias rau hnub yoo mov. Thaum txias, cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo khov tau txiav nrog rab riam thiab nchuav ntau nrog cov roj linseed. Pab nrog hemp roj yog ntau tsoos.

Nyob rau hauv cov nroog, pea jelly tau nrov raws li cov zaub mov ntawm txoj kev, kev lag luam uas nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab faj tim teb chaws tau tsim heev thiab ntau haiv neeg. Alexander Bashutsky nyob rau hauv nws "Panorama ntawm St. Petersburg" (1834) sau tseg tias "ib tug Lavxias teb sab tsis nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov saib xyuas txog lub sij hawm los yog qhov chaw ntawm nws noj tshais los yog noj hmo. Nws noj txhua qhov chaw uas nws tshwm sim thiab thaum nws xav tias nws xav tau: tus digger zaum noj tshais ntawm ntug dej ntawm nws qhov zawj, tus kws qhia noj zaum ntawm lub thawv, tus neeg pleev kob rau ntawm lub ru tsev lossis hav zoov, cabby ntawm txoj kev tom ntej. rau nws nees. Raws li cov cwj pwm no, nyob rau hauv St. Petersburg, dhau li ntawm taverns lossis tavern yooj yim cov chaw tsim khoom rau cov neeg, ntau pua tus neeg taug kev taug kev los yog sawv ze ntawm cov choj nrog zaub mov thiab dej haus sib haum rau lub caij."

Muag jelly los ntawm tes hu ua jelly, thiab tus tub lag luam nws tus kheej hu ua jelly los yog jelly. Hauv phau ntawv "National Images of Industrialists" (1799), txoj haujlwm no tau piav qhia meej:

“Cov neeg muag khoom jelly taug kev hauv kev nrog lub tais ntawm lawv lub taub hau, thiab thaum lawv sawv hauv khw, lawv muab lawv lub tais rau ntawm trestles; uas yog ua los ntawm cov ntoo blocks folded crosswise thiab khi rau saum nrog ib tug hlua. Kissel yog muab tso rau ntawm ib lub rooj tsavxwm, npog nrog ib daim ntaub dawb, nyob rau lwm qhov kawg ntawm lub tais muaj tus naj npawb ntawm cov phaj ntoo, thiab tib rab diav rawg lossis qhov sib tw; rau cov neeg uas xav tau jelly, tus distributor txiav tawm ib daim, thiab txiav nws nyob rau hauv ib lub phaj rau hauv me me pieces, thiab ncuav hemp roj los ntawm lub hwj uas nws muaj rau qhov zoo tshaj plaws relish; ces tus qhua, siv ib tug ntse ntoo match zoo li rab rawg, noj nrog qab los noj mov. Kiselnik, nrog nws lub rooj mov, txav ntawm qhov chaw mus rau qhov chaw ob peb zaug hauv ib hnub, thiab nres ntau qhov chaw uas nws pom cov neeg ua haujlwm txaus thiab cov neeg tsav nkoj. Ntawm no yog ib tug sawfly ntawm ib tsob ntoo, uas, muaj nws cov cuab yeej nyob rau hauv nws txhais tes, thiab ib tug axes nyob rau hauv nws txoj siv, txaus siab rau nws tshaib plab nrog jelly. Kissel feem ntau yog boiled los ntawm pea hmoov, thiab feem ntau yog noj thaum yoo mov."

Kiselnicheskie coj hauv cov nyiaj tau los me ntsis. Nyob rau hauv zaj lus piv txwv "Kiselnik" los ntawm tus naas ej Lavxias teb sab kws sau paj lug ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th Alexander Sumarokov, txiv laum huab xeeb tub lag luam, sim txhim kho nws tej xwm txheej, nqis los nyiag lub cim ntawm lub thaj. Nyob rau hauv zaj paj huam satirical "Lub Lamentable Fall ntawm Poets" los ntawm lwm tus kws sau paj lug ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th, Vasily Maikov, ib tug scene yog hais tias txhob txwm tsis muaj dab tsi uas "cov nom tswv muag pea jelly."

Oatmeal thiab pea jelly yog cov tais diav nrov, tab sis raws li cov lus hais saum toj no qhia, pea jelly tau ntau dua hauv nroog thiab sau npe ua zaub mov rau cov neeg ua haujlwm. Tshwj xeeb, cabbies nyiam noj khoom txom ncauj nrog pea jelly. "Nws yog qhov nyuaj tshwj xeeb los ua haujlwm hauv cabs ' taverns," nco qab Vladimir Gilyarovsky. - Muaj ntau ntawm lawv nyob rau hauv Moscow. Lub vaj nrog cav rau nees yog sab nraud, thiab sab hauv muaj "skating rink" nrog zaub mov. Txhua yam yog nyob ntawm rink: sab plhu, catfish, thiab nqaij npuas. Los ntawm qhov txias, tus cabman nyiam yam uas yog fatter, thiab cov qe tawv, thiab yob, thiab hearth rickets ntawm bran, thiab ces ib txwm tau pea jelly."

Kissels ntawm qos yaj ywm starch

Thawj qhov kev sim hauv cov qos yaj ywm cog qoob loo hauv Lavxias teb sab faj tim teb chaws tau ua nyob rau hauv thawj ib nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th raws li European qauv. Cov qos yaj ywm loj hlob pib tau txais kev txhawb nqa hauv xeev txij li xyoo 1765, thaum Senate Instruction "ntawm kev cog qoob loo ntawm cov txiv apples" tau muab tawm. Qhov ntxov tshaj plaws Lavxias teb sab cookbook, The Newest and Complete Cookbook (1790, 2nd ed. 1791) los ntawm Nikolai Yatsenkov, twb muaj ib daim ntawv qhia ua qos yaj ywm hmoov - starch. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas nws tau thov kom siv nws rau cov mis nyuj jelly (ntawm almond thiab nyuj cov mis nyuj), rau cranberry jelly, tus sau tau pom zoo hmoov los ntawm "Sarochin millet", uas yog, mov. Nyob rau hauv "Kev piav qhia kev lag luam ntawm lub xeev Perm" xyoo 1813, qos yaj ywm jelly tau hais tias yog lub cim ntawm lub nroog txoj kev ntawm lub neej: cov neeg ua liaj ua teb siv qos yaj ywm "ci, boiled, hauv porridge, thiab lawv kuj ua lawv tus kheej pies thiab shangi (ib yam. ntawm pastry) los ntawm nws nrog kev pab ntawm hmoov; Thiab nyob rau hauv lub zos lawv spices lawv ua kua zaub, noj lawv nrog ci thiab ua hmoov los ntawm nws rau ua jelly.

Kev tsim cov qos yaj ywm hmoov txhuv nplej siab ntawm kev lag luam tau pib nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab faj tim teb chaws tom qab 1843, raws li ib feem ntawm "feem ntau lub zog ntsuas rau kev sib kis ntawm qos qoob loo." Tus naj npawb ntawm cov qos yaj ywm sown nce ntxiv, tab sis tseem tsis tuaj yeem muab piv nrog cov qoob loo qoob loo: xyoo 1851-1860, qos yaj ywm tau cog hauv Moscow xeev 10 npaug tsawg dua cov qoob loo, thiab hauv Vologda xeev - 23 npaug tsawg dua. Yog li ntawd, txiav txim los ntawm cov lus piav qhia thiab cov ntawv sau keeb kwm, kom txog rau thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th, qos yaj ywm jelly yog qhov tsis tshua muaj txiaj ntsig rau cov nplej jelly thiab pea.

Nyob rau hauv phau ntawv txhais lus ntawm Lavxias teb sab Academy (1789-1794), oat jelly yog hu ua lub ntsiab, buckwheat thiab pea jelly kuj tau hais (zoo ib yam li thib ob tsab ntawm 1806-1822). Nyob rau hauv "Cov Lus Txhais ntawm Lub Koom Txoos Slavonic thiab Lus Lavxias" (1847), jelly tau txhais dav dua li "cov khoom noj uas tau npaj los ntawm txoj kev leaven thiab boiling los ntawm ntau hom hmoov," tab sis tsuas yog oat jelly tau muab ua piv txwv. Lub ntsiab lus zoo sib xws ntawm jelly raws li cov kua qaub jelly (oatmeal, rye lossis hom qoob mog; pea jelly yog hais cais) muaj nyob rau hauv Phau ntawv txhais lus piav qhia ntawm Lub Neej Zoo Tshaj Plaws los ntawm Vladimir Dahl, luam tawm xyoo 1863-1866 (zoo ib yam li tsab thib ob. ntawm 1880-1882). Tab sis nyob rau hauv lub encyclopedia ntawm Brockhaus thiab Efron, luam tawm nyob rau hauv lub lem ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, qos yaj ywm jelly tau coj mus rau lub hauv paus: "powdery jelly, ua los ntawm qos yaj ywm hmoov thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo kua txiv (cranberry, Cherry, liab los yog dub currant, raspberry, kua)., thiab lwm yam), yog seasoned txiv qaub zest los yog cinnamon, tsawg dua cloves, thiab lwm yam.; muab mis nyuj. Npaj tsis muaj kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo, oatmeal, rye, thiab nplej K. yog muab tso rau hauv khob noom cookie thiab sourdough; peas - unleavened."

Ntau phau ntawv ua noj hauv Lavxias ntawm xyoo pua 19th muaj cov zaub mov txawv rau qos yaj ywm jelly. Raws li Maksim Syrnikov sau tseg, "yog tias koj sau tawm ib qho ntawm cov zaub mov no, koj tau txais cov jelly ntawm qhov ntom ntom thiab sib xws uas koj tsis tuaj yeem hu nws haus". Tseeb tiag, txiv hmab txiv ntoo, txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab mis nyuj jelly ntawm qos yaj ywm starch yog cov khoom qab zib txias heev. Tej zaum, kev lig kev cai ntawm kev noj lawv nrog mis nyuj (almond los yog nyuj) los yog qab zib dhau los ntawm grain jelly. Daim ntawv qhia rau cov kua dej kub jelly tsis tshua muaj nyob rau hauv cookbooks thiab muab cais.

Cranberry jelly

Cranberry jelly yog tej zaum thawj txiv hmab txiv ntoo tshwm nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cuisine thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog hlub. Thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th, nws tau txais kev pab ntawm lub rooj rau Patriarch ntawm Moscow thiab Tag nrho cov Russia Adrian, nrog rau cov nplej jelly: "txias" nrog tag nrho, cream los yog kua txiv thiab "kub" nrog molasses los yog butter. (Qhov tseeb hais tias nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv no peb tab tom tham txog jelly ua los ntawm grain hmoov yog paub tseeb hais tias los ntawm Vasily Levshin's Ruska Povarnya.) Raws li nyob rau hauv daim ntawv qhia muab los ntawm N. Yatsenkov, nws muaj peev xwm xav hais tias thaum pib cranberry jelly tau npaj rau mov starch. Nrog rau assimilation ntawm qos starch los ntawm Lavxias teb sab cuisine, cranberry jelly pib npaj rau nws lub hauv paus. Nws yog paub tias nyob rau hauv 1829 "qos cranberry jelly" tau txais kev pab rau Pushkin. Nrog rau kev nkag mus ntawm cranberry jelly mus rau thoob plaws pej xeem lub neej, nws tau hu ua "liab" nyob rau hauv sib piv rau "dawb" oatmeal.

Cov jelly no tuaj yeem muab kub ua ib qho zaub mov ywj siab lossis txias nrog mis / qab zib thiab qab zib. Raws li cov lus tim khawv ntawm Saltykov-Shchedrin, nyob rau hauv St. Petersburg nyob rau hauv lub 1870s nyob rau hauv lub Maloyaroslavl tavern, "cranberry jelly nrog sated zaub mov" tau txais kev pab. Qee lub sij hawm nws tau siv los ua gravy: nyob rau hauv cov ntawv xov xwm "Moskvityanin" rau 1856, nrog rau "ntau yam txias jelly nrog qab zib", muaj ib tug hais txog "ib tug boiled crust doused nrog kub cranberry jelly nrog qab zib."

Cranberry jelly tau dhau los ua ib qho kev sib txuas ntawm jelly ua los ntawm cov nplej thiab qos yaj ywm hmoov, qhia txog kev txhim kho ntuj tsim ntawm Lavxias teb sab cuinary kev lig kev cai. Ntawm qhov tod tes, cranberries yog cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo qaub, thiab cov hmoov jelly los ntawm nws yog jelly nyob rau hauv thawj lub ntsiab lus ntawm lo lus. Ua noj nws nrog qab zib rov tsim dua lub qab zib thiab qaub tsw yam ntxwv ntawm oatmeal jelly nrog zoo noj. Ntawm qhov tod tes, cranberry jelly tau koom rau ntau yam tshiab ntawm cov zaub mov no - ntawm cov hmoov txhuv nplej siab, ntau yam uas yuav tsis qaub, tab sis qab zib. Nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, "qab zib jelly" raws li ib tug tshwj xeeb tais twb tau hais nyob rau hauv lub "Domostroy" nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 16th. Nws tsis paub meej tias lawv nyob li cas thaum lub sijhawm ntawd, tab sis nws muaj feem ntau tias qhov no yog lub npe muab rau cov nplej jelly nrog puv lossis molasses.

Almond thiab mis nyuj jelly

Lwm hom jelly ua nrog qos yaj ywm starch yog almond jelly, uas yog boiled los ntawm almond mis nyuj. Nws yog rov hais dua nyob rau hauv "Lub Caij Ntuj Sov ntawm Tswv" (1927-1944) los ntawm Ivan Shmelev ua noj ntshiv. Nyob rau hauv "Moscow thiab Muscovites" Vladimir Gilyarovsky ntawm kev ua koob tsheej noj hmo "tau txais kev pab nrog almond jelly nrog almond mis nyuj." Mis jelly kuj tau npaj los ntawm nyuj cov mis nyuj thiab qab zib nrog ntxiv ntawm iab almonds.

Cov zaub mov no yog ze rau cereal jelly nrog mis nyuj, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nplej. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, kev cuam tshuam ntawm blancmange yog qhov pom tseeb, uas tau nthuav dav hauv Russia los ntawm qhov kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th ua zaub mov ntawm lub rooj ua koob tsheej. Sib piv hauv "Eugene Onegin": "Vim li cas, ntawm no hauv ib lub raj mis ntawm tar, / Nruab nrab ntawm ci thiab blancmange, / Tsimlyanskoye twb raug nqa." Nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cookbooks, lub ntsiab sib txawv ntawm almond / mis nyuj jelly thiab blancmange yog hais tias tom kawg siv ntses kua nplaum los yog gelatin es tsis yog qos starch.

Nyob rau hauv "Painting for the Tsar's Food" (1610-1613), muab tso ua ke rau Polish prince Vladislav, nws tau hais tias: "Nyob rau ntawm ib lub tais ntawm dawb jelly, thiab nyob rau hauv nws ib tug ladle ntawm cov mis nyuj tshiab, muab cream." Muaj kev ntxias kom pom oatmeal hauv cov mis nyuj hauv "dawb jelly", raws li kev siv nrov. Txawm li cas los xij, feem ntau peb tab tom tham txog ib qho ntawm cov kev hloov pauv ntawm blancmange (piv txwv li, ntawm cov hmoov txhuv nplej siab), uas nyob rau lub sijhawm ntawd tau nrov hauv Tebchaws Europe ntawm cov chav kawm siab ntawm zej zog. Nyob rau hauv lub cookbook Ekaterina Avdeeva thiab Nikolai Maslov nyob rau hauv 1912, nws yog mis nyuj nyob rau hauv qos starch hu ua "dawb jelly".

Kissel nyob rau hauv Soviet lub sij hawm

Thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th, jelly nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cuisine tau nthuav tawm nyob rau hauv tag nrho nws cov ntau haiv neeg, nrog rau cov feem ntau txawv txawv xaiv. Phau ntawv sau hais txog no muaj cov zaub mov tsis yog rau "melon" thiab "chocolate" jelly, tab sis kuj jelly los ntawm sago (cereal los ntawm granular starch rho tawm los ntawm sago palms) nrog cov txuj lom, uas yog pom zoo kom noj "kub nrog raspberry jam".

Nyob rau hauv Soviet lub sij hawm, muaj ib tug rift paub los ntawm keeb kwm ntawm khob cij caw: yog hais tias tus piav phau ntawv txhais lus ntawm Ushakov (1935-1940) yog tseem tsom rau lub system ntawm lub ntsiab lus ntawm imperial Russia, ces phau ntawv txhais lus ntawm Ozhegov (1949) kho ib tug so. nrog rau Lavxias teb sab kev lig kev cai: mus rau hauv "gelatinous kua zaub mov" (italics kuv - MM).

Nyob rau hauv phau bible ntawm Soviet cookery, "Phau Ntawv Delicious thiab noj qab haus huv" (1939), jelly tau nthuav tawm zoo heev, suav nrog almond thiab oatmeal ("Kissel los ntawm oatmeal nrog mis"). Lawv raug muab ua noj "ntawm nruab nrab tuab thiab tuab" thiab ua haujlwm "kub thiab txias". Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, cov zaub mov txawv rau cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo jelly tau muab rau hauv ntu rau cov tais diav qab zib, oatmeal tau xaus rau hauv cov hmoov nplej nrog rau dumplings thiab pasties, thiab peas tsis tau hais txhua. Nyob rau hauv tib phau ntawv xyoo 1952, ib qho kev tshaj tawm uas suav hais tias yog qhov piv txwv, almond jelly thiab jelly los ntawm oatmeal raug cais tawm, txawm hais tias oatmeal nws tus kheej tseem nyob thiab nws tau thov kom ua noj ib yam li salamata los ntawm nws.

Kev puas tsuaj ntawm ib chav kawm ntawm cov tais diav tau nrog los ntawm kev maj mam liquefaction ntawm jelly ntawm cov hmoov txhuv nplej siab, lawv hloov mus rau hauv dej haus. Hauv "Kitchen on a Cev thiab Primus" (1927) K. Ya. Dedrina muab qhov feem ntawm cov kua thiab hmoov txhuv nplej siab 6 × 1, uas sib haum rau cov qauv ua ntej kev hloov pauv. Nyob rau hauv "Phau ntawv ntawm cov khoom noj qab thiab noj qab nyob zoo" ntawm 1939 thiab 1952, qhov sib piv yog muab: ob tablespoons qos yaj ywm hmoov tau muab tso rau ntawm ib khob ntawm berries. Nyob rau hauv tib phau ntawv 1987, twb muaj plaub khob dej rau ob tablespoons hmoov txhuv nplej siab.

Thaum kawg ntawm lub Soviet lub sij hawm, lub tswv yim ntawm qos yaj ywm jelly tau txo mus rau lub niaj hnub theem, thiab rau centuries lub oat thiab pea jelly, hlub los ntawm cov neeg Lavxias teb sab, raug tshem tawm los ntawm ua noj ua haus. Nws tau mus rau lub ntsiab lus uas nyob rau hauv 1992 tus kws kho mob Vladimir Izotov tswj patent ib daim ntawv qhia rau zoo tib yam oatmeal jelly raws li ib tug tshuaj tais.

Lub originality ntawm Lavxias teb sab jelly

Kev hloov pauv ntawm cov hmoov jelly rau hauv cov dej haus kub cuam tshuam kev sib raug zoo ntawm Lavxias teb sab zaub mov nrog rau kev ua noj ua haus ntawm lwm haiv neeg nyob sab Europe. Qhov tshwm sim tsis meej pem tau tshwm sim hauv "Culinary Dictionary" (2002, luam tawm tom qab) los ntawm William Pokhlebkin. Nws faib jelly rau hauv "Lavxias teb sab" (rye, oatmeal, nplej thiab taum mog) thiab "Berry-txiv hmab txiv ntoo", uas supposedly yog "qab zib tais diav ntawm Western European cuisine." Raws li Pokhlebkin, nws yog ib qho kev cai ua noj jelly nyob rau sab hnub poob teb chaws Europe, thiab nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cuisine nws zoo li yog hais tias nruab nrab-tuab jelly tau txais. Qhov kev vam meej ntawm ib nrab-kev paub yog lub tswv yim kom noj lean pea jelly nrog nqaij broth los yog gravy.

Gelatinous tais diav, zoo li jelly, yog dav nyob rau hauv Western European thiab nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no cuisine. Ib qho piv txwv tseem ceeb yog nplej paj npleg, pom nyob rau hauv ntau hom thoob ntiaj teb. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov sib thooj ntawm cov zaub mov txawv yog cov yam ntxwv sib npaug rau oatmeal, taum pauv, mis nyuj thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo jelly, uas yog ntuj nrog kev lag luam thiab kev sib pauv kev coj noj coj ua.

Ib qho kev sib raug zoo ntawm cov hmoov nplej jelly tuaj yeem pom hauv British cuisine ntawm 17th - 19th centuries - flummery. Cov khoom qab zib no tau npaj los ntawm soaked oat los yog nplej noob, tab sis tsis muaj fermentation, thiab tau txais kev pab nrog zib mu, cream thiab lwm yam additives. Lub xub ntiag nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab kev lig kev cai ntawm theem ntawm fermentation yog zoo kawg li, txij li thaum peb cuisine tag nrho yog yus muaj los ntawm ib tug qaub gamut. Flammery yog suav tias yog ntau hom paj npleg, uas muaj ntau yam hauv lus Askiv cuisine. Tsis tas li ntawd nyob rau hauv Great Britain muaj ib tug analogue ntawm peb salamata - gruel. Nws yog cov zaub mov no uas tsim lub hauv paus ntawm kev noj haus ntawm cov neeg nyob hauv lub tsev ua haujlwm hauv phau ntawv tshiab Oliver Twist los ntawm Charles Dickens.

Lub German sib npaug ntawm oat jelly, Haferschleim, twb tau hais lawm. Tsis tas li ntawd, nyob rau hauv German thiab Danish cuisine muaj ib lub tais tag nrho zoo ib yam li jelly on qos starch: nws. rote Grütze, dat. rødgrød - lus "liab grits". Cov khoom qab zib qab zib no nrog lub caij ntuj sov liab berries yog Ameslikas tsim los ntawm cereals, ces qos yaj ywm starch tau siv los ua cov thickener. Rote Grütze kuj tau txais kev pab txias nrog mis nyuj lossis qab zib.

Nyob rau hauv Fabkis cuisine, txiv hmab txiv ntoo-txiv hmab txiv ntoo jellies, uas tau npaj nrog ntxiv ntawm ntses kua nplaum, thiab tom qab ntawd gelatin, yog qhov ze tshaj rau starch-based jelly. Nyob rau hauv "Almanac ntawm Gastronomes" (1852-1855) los ntawm Ignatius Radetzky, uas nthuav tawm Lavxias teb sab-Fabkis cuisine ntawm nruab nrab-19th caug xyoo, cov npe ntawm jelly yog duplicated nyob rau hauv Fabkis li "gelèe (kissel)". Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, Radetzky tsis sib xyaw cov tais diav no: phau ntawv muaj cov zaub mov txawv rau raspberry thiab cranberry jelly thiab jelly los ntawm tib lub txiv hmab txiv ntoo, thiab tseem muab cov zaub mov zoo sib xws rau almond jelly thiab almond blancmange.

Turkish delight (Turkish delight), uas yog siav rau cov hmoov txhuv nplej siab nrog dej sawv, mastic ntoo resin los yog kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo raws li lub ntsiab flavoring essences, muaj ib tug zoo xws li cov dej khov jelly ntawm qos starch. Ib qho analogue ntawm pea jelly yog yooj yim pom nyob rau hauv Italian cuisine - nws yog pob kws hmoov polenta (hominy nyob rau hauv Eastern Romanesque lub teb chaws).

Nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab ua noj ua haus kev lig kev cai ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, jelly tau pom tias yog ib hom zaub mov thiab tsis tov nrog jellies, blancmange, puddings thiab lwm yam txawv teb chaws tais diav uas nyob ze rau lawv. Tsis muaj laj thawj rau ib leeg tawm jelly ntawm qos yaj ywm hmoov txhuv nplej siab los ntawm cov koob no ua "zaub mov ntawm Western European cuisine". Cov hmoov txhuv nplej siab (nqaij, qos yaj ywm, pob kws) tau siv los ua cov thickener nyob rau hauv ntau lub teb chaws Europe, thiab Lavxias teb sab cuisine, nrog nws assimilation, ceev ceev nrog lub sij hawm, thaum tuav nws originality.

Kissels nyob rau hauv niaj hnub Russian cuisine

Niaj hnub no, cov lus hais tias "muaj jelly rau xya mais" (uas yog, mus taug kev ntev rau qhov uas nyob ntawm tes) tuaj yeem siv nyab xeeb hauv kev nkag siab. Txawm tias cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo jelly tsis tshua pom muaj nyob hauv cafes thiab khw noj mov, tsis txhob hais txog lwm yam ntawm cov zaub mov no.

Nyob rau hauv ib tug xov tooj ntawm cov lag luam, oat thiab / los yog taum mog jelly tshwm sim ua tsaug rau Maxim Syrnikov. Cov no yog Dobryanka Lavxias teb sab cuisine khw nyob rau hauv Novosibirsk, lub tsev noj mov Voskresenye Moscow thiab lub zos Lavxias teb sab nyob rau hauv Vladimir. Nyob rau hauv St. Petersburg, oatmeal jelly tuaj yeem pom hauv lub tsev noj mov Pomorsky.

Ntawm qhov kev txaus siab yog tus sau phau ntawv ntawm cov tsoos Lavxias teb sab jelly. Tus kws ua zaub mov thiab tus tswv ntawm Moscow lub tsev noj mov Delicatessen Ivan Shishkin tau ua tiav daim ntawv qhia ua kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo: "Kuv coj nws yuav luag zoo tag nrho, txawm hais tias nws tsuas muaj peas hmoov, dej thiab zaub roj. Tab sis kuv haus luam yeeb hmoov, noj zaub broth, siv marmite (British poov xab paste nrog ib tug muaj zog ntsev saj - MM) rau cov ntses uas muab lub tais, zam txim rau kuv, saj ntawm nqaij. Kuv kib pickles nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev tshwj xeeb, ua decorations los ntawm tshiab tua. " Shishkin tau nthuav tawm tus sau phau ntawv taum mog thiab oat jelly ntawm Moscow gastronomic festival Omnivore 2013 thiab tom qab qhia tau txiv laum huab xeeb rau hauv cov ntawv qhia caij nplooj ntoos hlav xyoo 2014. Lenten zaub mov ntawm 2014 ntawm St. Petersburg lub tsev noj mov ntawm tshiab Lavxias teb sab cuisine "CoKoCo" kuj muaj xws li sau phau ntawv pea jelly los ntawm lub taub hau kws ua zaub mov Igor Grishechkin - nrog "smoking carrot puree, fries thiab chips los ntawm Borodino qhob cij." Hmoov tsis zoo, keeb kwm ntawm kev rov xav dua ntawm jelly nyob rau hauv niaj hnub Lavxias teb sab cookery yog, hmoov tsis, txwv rau ob qho piv txwv.

Maxim Marusenkov