USSR cuisine: catering, ideology, technology

2024 Tus sau: Seth Attwood | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 16:06

Matryoshka yog, nyob rau hauv kuv lub tswv yim, qhov zoo tshaj plaws kev sib piv rau Soviet cuisine. Ib hom "matryoshka", uas muaj ntau yam nested ntsiab. Yog li cia peb sim sau nws, pib ntawm qhov tseem ceeb heev. Thiab maj mam, me ntsis los ntawm me ntsis, ntxiv cov duab tshiab thiab cov khaub ncaws, peb yuav sim muab tso ua ke ib daim duab ntawm qhov tshwm sim no.

Kuv xav tias kuv yuav tsis yuam kev yog tias kuv hais: zoo li hauv chav ua noj , Soviet cuisine yog raws li nws cov yam ntxwv khoom thiab zaub mov txawv … Sawv los ntawm lub hauv paus ntawm ib-paus xyoo ua noj ua haus Lavxias teb sab, nws tau txais tag nrho cov khoom noj khoom haus thiab daim ntawv qhia teeb uas tau tsim los ntawm qhov pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th. Tab sis nws coj nws tsis yog mechanically, tab sis dhau los ntawm ib hom sieve. Qhov kev xaiv no yog dab tsi?

• Txij thaum pib, vim muaj kev xav txog kev xav, tag nrho cov zaub mov zoo ntawm cov neeg siab siab raug tshem tawm. Nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, lub siab ntawm no ib feem ntawm Lavxias teb sab gastronomy yog heev zoo nyob rau hauv thawj xyoo ntawm lub Soviet hwj chim, uas tom qab ntawd, txawm nrog tag nrho cov muaj siab xav ntawm cov tub ceev xwm los tsim rau lawv tus kheej ib tug zoo analogue ntawm lub high zej zog cuisine, tsis muaj dab tsi. tsim nyog tawm tuaj.

• Cov zaub mov tsis txaus tau ua rau muaj ntau yam khoom siv. Ntxiv mus, tsis tsuas yog qee cov khoom kim heev, kab txawv (piv txwv li, capers, hazel grouses lossis sturgeon) ploj mus. Hauv kev xyaum, qee zaum txawm tias cov khoom lag luam suav nrog hauv lub pob tawb ntawm lub teb chaws cuisine - buckwheat, butter, dej ntses - ploj mus.

• Yuav luag tag kev cais tawm ntawm kev lag luam sab nraud - feem ntau yog vim tsis txaus ntawm kev sib pauv txawv teb chaws, uas tom qab ntawd tau ntxiv cov tswv yim vim li cas. Qhov tshwm sim ntawm qhov no yog qhov ploj ntawm kev muag khoom ntawm txhua yam uas tsis tau tsim nyob rau hauv USSR, tshwj tsis yog Finnish salami, Viola cheese, Yugoslavian nqaij npua thiab Polish khov zaub. Feem ntau ntawm cov khoom tuaj txawv teb chaws tau destined rau lub Soviet zaub mov kev lag luam, uas muab lawv mus rau hauv kev paub rau cov pej xeem kas fes nrog yuav luag tsis muaj caffeine, hnyuv ntxwm nrog yuav luag tsis muaj nqaij, seasonings yuav luag tsis muaj aroma.

• Qhov tshwm sim ntawm cov khoom tshiab uncharacteristic rau keeb kwm Lavxias teb sab cuisine - pob kws, dej hiav txwv ntses thiab nqaij nruab deg, crabs, tsim los ua kom tiav cov nyiaj txiag tsis txaus ntawm lub teb chaws cuisine - nqaij, dej ntses, txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab zaub.

• Ib qho kev poob qis hauv cov khoom tshiab ntawm txhua pawg vim muaj qhov tsis zoo nyob rau hauv kev lag luam thiab kev faib khoom. Kev nce hauv qhov sib piv rau qhov no hauv kev sib koom ntawm cov khoom noj kaus poom thiab cov khoom ua tiav. Tom qab lub Soviet zaub mov kev lag luam mastered thev naus laus zis ntawm cov txiv lws suav puree thiab pasta (hauv xyoo 1930), cov txiv lws suav tshiab tau ploj mus los ntawm cov zaub mov txawv rau cov kua ntses, pickles, kua zaub thiab borscht. Kev noj ntau ntawm cov npaj ua lag luam mayonnaise kuj haum rau qhov sib txawv no.

• Vim qhov txo qis ntawm cov ntses dej thiab cov nqaij hauv cov zaub mov ntawm cov pejxeem, muaj kev noj zaub mov ntau ntxiv. Tsim cov khoom noj tshiab - "Artek" cereals, puffed thiab crimped pob kws nplej, dag sago. Ib tug ntse nce nyob rau hauv cov feem ntawm thawj qos yaj ywm, thiab ces - pasta nyob rau hauv cov zaub mov ntawm loj zaub mov.

• Hloov cov roj ua noj ua haus nrog cov khoom tsim kho. Margarines thiab lwm cov rog hauv chav ua noj tau hloov tag nrho cov butter los ntawm kev noj zaub mov rau pej xeem thiab tau zoo nkauj hloov cov roj zaub zoo.

Cov kauj ruam tom ntej ntawm kev nkag siab txog Soviet cuisine, cov duab tom ntej ntawm tus menyuam roj hmab zes, yog nws qhov kev txiav txim siab dav dav: tsis yog cov khoom siv xwb, tab sis kuj tseem muaj cov txheej txheem ua noj ua haus, kev siv tshuab ua zaub mov, hom thiab qhov xwm txheej ntawm cov zaub mov, cov qauv thiab kev coj ua ntawm kev pabcuam. tais diav. Thiab twb los ntawm qhov kev xav no, Soviet cuisine yog ib qho tshwm sim ntau yam txawv. Thiab nws tsis yog qhov kuv qhuas nws. Thiab tsuas yog tias peb cov zaub mov hauv xyoo pua 20th muaj tus cwj pwm ntawm tus kheej, qee zaum tsis muaj qhov sib piv hauv ntiaj teb. Cov yam ntxwv ntawm nws yog dab tsi?

• Kev taw qhia catering tau muab chav ua noj ua tus cwj pwm ntawm kev tsim khoom lag luam, uas ua rau poob tus cwj pwm ntawm tus kws ua zaub mov rau tus neeg siv khoom. Thiab qhov kev npaj ntawm ib qho zaub mov rau ib puas lossis ob feem tau tsim ib qho kev coj noj coj ua thiab kev coj cwj pwm ntawm nws.

• Kev sib ntaus tawm tsam tub sab hauv tsev noj mov thiab tsev noj mov ua rau muaj kev sib koom ua ke ntawm cov zaub mov txawv, kev nqis peev ntawm kev kos duab ntawm kev ua noj, uas tsuas yog ua raws li cov qauv tsim ntawm kev nqis peev thiab zaub mov txawv.

• Ib daim ntawv qhia meej Soviet thaum kawg tau tsim: zaub xam lav, kua zaub, chav kawm tseem ceeb, khoom qab zib (kab fes, compote). Txhua yam kev pabcuam nruab nrab (khoom noj txom ncauj kub, cheeses, txiv hmab txiv ntoo) tawm ntawm cov zaub mov loj rau kev xaiv noj zaub mov zoo ntawm cov khw nojmov hauv nroog thiab kev txais tos.

• Cov khoom noj txom ncauj tau yooj yim dua rau kev txiav cov hnyuv ntxwm, cheese, balyk, cov ntses hauv kaus poom (sprat, sardines, herring), thiab lwm yam. Nrog rau cov khoom ploj, xws li cov khoom noj txom ncauj hauv tsev xws li nqaij nyug ci, nqaij npuas kib, thiab cov tais diav uas ploj lawm.

• Kev siv thoob plaws hauv kev txiav txim hauv cov tuam txhab thiab cov chaw ua haujlwm "ua rau" cov hnub so hauv tsev ua noj, uas ntau thiab ntau dua boiled rau txiav sausages, muab cov kaus poom zaub mov rau ntawm daim hlau thiab kneading khoom nrog mayonnaise (Olivier, herring nyob rau hauv ib lub tsho tiv no, nqaij. zaub nyoos).

• Thawj chav kawm hauv cov zaub mov loj tawm ntawm lub tebchaws keeb kwm kev lig kev cai. Kalya thiab botvinya xyaum ploj ntawm cov khoom noj khoom haus loj. Thiab tsis yog vim tsis muaj cov khoom lossis nws nyuaj rau kev ua noj. Nws tsuas yog hais tias qee lub sij hawm lawv tsis tau nkag mus rau hauv cov ntawv xaiv catering. Thiab vice versa, lub Soviet era yog qhov kev vam meej ntawm borscht, pickle kua zaub, hodgepodge, noodle kua zaub. Qhov twg, feem ntau, kuj tuaj yeem nkag siab - cov khoom siv tau yooj yim, cov tais diav. Ntxiv rau - nws kuj yog ib txoj hauv kev pov tseg cov khoom siv tsis siv hauv cov tais diav kub, satiety thiab calorie cov ntsiab lus.

• Lub assimilation ntawm lub teb chaws tais diav nyob rau hauv lub neej txhua hnub thiab kev noj zaub mov rau pej xeem (feem ntau nyob rau hauv Central Asia thiab Transcaucasia) tau dhau los ua ib tug muaj zog nyiam, me ntsis devalued, txawm li cas los xij, los ntawm cov khoom zoo thiab tsis paub txog cov txheej txheem ua noj tshwj xeeb ntawm cov neeg no. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, nws yog Caucasian cuisine uas tau los ua lub ntsiab lus nrog lub rooj festive rau ntau nyob rau hauv lub USSR vim nws brightness, sharpness ntawm saj thiab dav exoticism.

• Kev khaws cia ntawm "nyob" Lavxias teb sab cuisine tsuas yog nyob rau hauv lub neej txhua hnub. Thiab peb tsis tau tham ntawm no txog qee cov tais diav xws li txiv neej, gingerbread lossis cranberry cawv. Nws yog cereals, pancakes thiab pies nyob rau hauv lub loj catering uas tau npaj heev phem. Tsuas yog lub tsev chav ua noj khaws cia "poj niam" zaub mov txawv, qhov tseeb tsim cov keeb kwm kev lig kev cai ntawm cov neeg.

Tab sis qhov nthuav dav tshaj plaws ntawm kev ua noj ua haus Soviet tos peb thaum xav txog nws cov "theem" tom ntej - kev coj noj coj ua thiab kev xav. Tseeb, peb cov zaub mov yog ib feem tseem ceeb ntawm kab lis kev cai ntawm cov neeg Soviet nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 20th

• Lub undoubted politicization ntawm lub Soviet cuisine. Hauv qhov no, nws txawv ntawm kev ua noj ua haus ua ntej kev hloov pauv, uas tsis tau muaj kev cuam tshuam tshwj xeeb nrog cov xwm txheej hauv keeb kwm kev nom kev tswv.

• Qhov kev nom kev tswv no tau dhau los ua qhov tshwm sim ntawm lub luag haujlwm ntawm tus txiv neej uas lub xeev Soviet tau xav. Nws yog lub npe hu hais tias Nicholas II, thaum lub sij hawm pej xeem suav pej xeem suav pej xeem nyob rau hauv 1897, teb txog nws txoj hauj lwm - "tus tswv ntawm lub Lavxias teb sab av." Ntxiv mus, nyob rau hauv cov lus qhuab qhia, cov neeg ua liaj ua teb yeej ib txwm yog "breadwinner" ntawm thaj av no. Thiab tsuas yog lub Soviet tsoom fwv assumed lub luag hauj lwm ntawm tsis tsuas yog tus tswv, tab sis kuj lub breadwinner. Lub luag haujlwm rau cov zaub mov thiab kev zoo siab ntawm txhua tus neeg tau tso siab rau nws. Nyob rau hauv qhov tseeb, qhov no tsuas yog ib tug tshwj xeeb rooj plaub ntawm lub universal txoj cai - lub Soviet tsoom fwv txiav txim siab nws tus kheej lub luag hauj lwm rau tag nrho cov cheeb tsam ntawm lub neej ntawm nws cov pej xeem.

Qhov kev nyiam no tau piav qhia meej heev los ntawm Alexander Genis. Nws tau sau tseg tias "Raws li txhua qhov kev coj noj coj ua," nws hais tias, "Phau Ntawv Cov Khoom Noj Qab Haus Huv thiab Noj Qab Haus Huv" kho cov zaub mov tsis yog kev lag luam ntiag tug, tsev neeg, tab sis yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm tsoomfwv."

• Cov ntawv thesis hais txog qhov xwm txheej ntawm kev ua noj ua haus Soviet tau siv los ua kev sib cav rau lub xeev txoj kev cuam tshuam hauv kev noj zaub mov. Nws tau tshaj tawm: tsuas yog cov kws kho mob thiab cov kws kho mob noj zaub mov kom raug tsim cov ntawv qhia zaub mov thiab saib xyuas kev npaj cov tais diav noj qab haus huv. Thiab tsuas yog cov kws ua zaub mov ntawm lub xeev cov tsev noj mov thiab tsev noj mov yuav tsum npaj kom raug thiab nthuav qhia rau cov neeg siv khoom.

Tau kawg, tus nyeem ntawv yuav tsis pom zoo: ua ntej ntawd, lawv hais tias, peb tau tham txog cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khoom - cov khoom, tais diav, zaub mov txawv, txog txhua yam uas tuaj yeem pom, kov thiab txaus siab rau qhov saj. Tseeb tiag, tam sim no peb tau nkag mus rau hauv av tsis xis nyob ntawm mythologization ntawm Soviet cuisine. Thiab txhawm rau ua kom lub tswv yim theem ntawm nws pom tseeb dua, cia peb sim ua kom pom ob peb yam. Yuav pib nrog, koj yuav tsum to taub kom meej rau koj tus kheej tias tsis muaj ib tug Soviet cookery. Thiab qhov tseeb, nws yog los ntawm qhov twg? Txawm tias muaj ntau pua xyoo dhau los ntawm Lavxias teb sab cuisine tau riddled nrog contradictions. Rau qee qhov laj thawj, kom txog rau thaum xyoo 1917, ntau ntau yam ntawm nws cov subspecies nyob ntsiag to nyob rau hauv lub moj khaum ntawm tag nrho cov-Lavxias cuisine: peasant thiab tub lag luam cuisine, lub cuisine ntawm elegant St. Petersburg tsev noj mov thiab Moscow taverns, catering cuisine (nyob rau hauv lub siab hais tias) thiab tsev cuisine. ntawm cov chav nruab nrab, cov cuisine ntawm schismatics thiab Orthodox Christians. Qhov no yog txawm tias peb tsis xav txog qhov sib txawv ntawm thaj chaw (hais tias, Lavxias North thiab Don, Siberia thiab Polesie), nrog rau muaj ntau tus yam ntxwv hauv tebchaws.

Tias yog vim li cas thaum peb sib piv ob qhov tshwm sim - Lavxias teb sab zaub mov thiab Soviet lub hwj chim rau nws - peb tau paub ntau dua thiab paub txog kev hloov pauv, qhov tseem ceeb ntawm qhov kawg ntawm qhov kawg. Tseeb tiag, tsis muaj teeb meem dab tsi hloov pauv tau tshwm sim rau peb ua noj rau ntau pua xyoo - kev taw qhia ntawm cov ntseeg kev yoo mov thiab cov neeg noj nqaij, Mongol puas tsuaj thiab Asian cuam tshuam, kev tsov kev rog thiab kev puas tsuaj ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th, schism thiab Peter's transformations, tag nrho "Frenchization" ntawm lub nroog gastronomy thiab kev taw qhia ntawm qos yaj ywm, kev tawm tsam ntawm Westerners thiab Slavophiles, kev loj hlob ntawm lub teb chaws cuisines - tsis mus sau txhua yam. Thiab tsis muaj dab tsi, coped.

Yog li ntawd, rov qab mus rau lub "txheej txheem" ntawm Soviet ua noj, nws yuav tsum tau borne nyob rau hauv lub siab hais tias qhov no tsuas yog ib tug continuation ntawm ib tug qauv uas tau tsim nyob rau hauv peb cuisine rau centuries. Hauv peb lub tswv yim, lub teb chaws Soviet cuisine yog ib hom lus dab neeg. Qhov no yog qhov tseeb uas official propaganda tau mob siab rau. Qhov tseeb, txawm li cas los xij, chav ua noj ntawm ntau pawg neeg tseem nyob. Ib yam dab tsi nyob rau hauv lawv yog nyob rau hauv ntau, ib yam dab tsi - tsuas yog nyob rau theem ntawm stereotypes.

Cov chav ua noj no yog dab tsi? Pom tseeb, txij li lub sijhawm ua ntej kev hloov pauv, nrog qee qhov tshwj xeeb, cov neeg ua liaj ua teb, cov zaub mov hauv zos tau khaws cia. Cov neeg uas hwm kev cai dab qhuas ua tib zoo sim khaws lawv (thiab lawv tsis sib ntaus sib tua nrog lawv hauv chav ua noj txawm tias nyob rau hauv lub xyoo hnyav tshaj plaws). Cov zaub mov hauv nroog tau hloov pauv ntau - vim yog kev qhia txog catering, cov khoom tshiab, txoj hauv kev rau khoom noj khoom haus. Tab sis tseem muaj kev sib txawv ntawm kev sib raug zoo: cov zaub mov ntawm cov neeg ua haujlwm hauv lub Hoobkas txawv ntawm lub rooj ntawm cov neeg ua haujlwm dawb. Lub chav ua noj rau cov neeg nplua nuj tau tsim los ntawm kev siv nyiaj ntawm cov neeg koom nrog hauv kev faib khoom lossis cov peev txheej, los ntawm lub taub hau ntawm lub khw muag khoom noj rau tus thawj coj (thiab, los ntawm txoj kev, tseem muaj cov lus nug loj, uas ntawm lawv muaj. ntau ntau thiab nplua nuj zaub mov). Cov neeg sawv cev uas rov qab los tsev tau txhawb nqa kev tu siab ntawm European delicacies los ntawm cov khoom siv tes ua, cov neeg txawj ntse muaj tswv yim maj mam txav mus rau "kev coj ua lag luam", cov npe me me tau hwm qhov kev nkag siab tsis sib haum xeeb thiab kev nkag siab ntawm "siab" lub tsev noj mov zam.

Txhua Soviet kev sib raug zoo stratum yog txaus siab rau ib yam dab tsi ntawm nws tus kheej thiab, nyob rau hauv tib lub sij hawm, ntau - ib tug nkag siab ntawm kev xaiv, tshwj xeeb nyob rau hauv ib tug Soviet system. Lwm qhov yog tias tsis yog txhua tus neeg to taub tag nrho qhov kev xav ntawm qhov "khoom kim heev". Tias yog vim li cas Pavel Nilin cov ntawv sau, sau tag nrho qhov hnyav (!) Hauv xyoo 1930, niaj hnub no tau txais lub suab humorous: tsim nyog. Thiab txij li thaum peb tau rhuav tshem cov kab mob parasitic, cov khoom kim heev dhau los ua cov cuab yeej ntawm tag nrho cov pejxeem. […] Tib neeg tam sim no xav tsis yog khau boots xwb, tab sis khau zoo, tsis yog lub tsheb kauj vab xwb, tab sis lub tsheb kauj vab zoo. Rau cov neeg tsim khoom ntawm Magnitka thiab Kuznetsk, Dneproges thiab Uralmash, cov kws sau ntawv ntawm cov khoom loj muaj cai rau lub neej zoo nkauj."

Thiab ntawm no peb tuaj rau lwm "tsis hais" feature ntawm Soviet cuisine. Lub sij hawm no, nws yog ntau ntawm socio-psychological xwm. Ob qho khoom noj thiab kev noj zaub mov yog qhov "beacon" uas tsis muaj kev cia siab tso cai rau koj los txiav txim siab txog kev sib raug zoo ntawm tus neeg sib tham. Qhov ci ntsa iab ntawm qhov tshiab los ntawm Yulian Semenov "Seventeen Moments of Spring" tsis tau theej los ntawm Nazi kev muaj tiag xyoo 1945. Nco ntsoov thaum Stirlitz tshwm sim nyob rau hauv tib lub compartment nrog Wehrmacht general: "Koj tsis muaj cognac." - "Kuv muaj brandy." "Yog li koj tsis muaj salami." - "Kuv muaj salami." - "Yog li, peb noj los ntawm tib lub feeder."

Lub ntsiab lus ntawm "kev pub noj mov" nyob rau hauv lub USSR yog, raws li nyob rau hauv cov dab neeg txog Harry Potter, lub npe ntawm "tus uas tsis muaj npe." Parallel (xeev-muaj) cov tshuab faib khoom thiab cov khoom lag luam tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 1930s, thiab thaum kawg ntawm xyoo 1970 lawv tau vam meej. Txawm li cas los xij, lawv nyob hauv "grey cheeb tsam". Ntawd yog, qee tus neeg paub txog lawv, ntau tus tau twv, tab sis hauv cov ntsiab lus txhua yam paub tsuas yog qee tus xaiv. Cov daim coupon tsis zoo nyob rau hauv lub "Kremlin" canteens ntawm Serafimovich (nyob rau hauv lub tsev ntawm lub Embankment), Rybny Pereulok thiab Granovsky (tam sim no Romanov Pereulok) tsuas yog 5-7 txhiab tus neeg ntawm lub siab tshaj plaws apparatchiks ntawm lub CPSU Central Committee, Council of Ministers., cov thawj coj ntawm Ministry thiab Departments. Tab sis lub koob meej ntawm lawv mus "tag nrho cov loj Russia."

Lawm, cov txheej txheem zoo sib xws tau raug tsim nyob rau hauv cov pab pawg hauv cheeb tsam hauv cheeb tsam, pawg thawj coj saib xyuas thiab pawg sab laj, qhov twg "qhov chimney qis dua thiab cov pa luam yeeb yog thinner". Kuv lees txim tias nyob rau hauv nruab nrab-1980s, nrog rau kuv txiv, uas yog ib tug tswv cuab ntawm lub "xaiv lub voj voog," kuv muaj lub cib fim mus xyuas cov chaw lag luam, uas tau ntev tau hu ua "distributors". Yog li, lub assortment tau nthuav tawm nyob rau ntawd tsuas yog rau hnub no lub khw hauv cheeb tsam nroog. Piv txwv li, ntawm Granovsky Street, kev lag luam tau teeb tsa hauv ib chav nrog thaj tsam ntawm 300 meters, qhov twg hauv 5-6 chav (koj tsis tuaj yeem hu lawv lub tsev), feem, hnyuv ntxwm (los ntawm Mikoyan tshwj xeeb rhiav thiab Finnish salami), 15-20 hom zaub mov kaus poom, tau nthuav tawm, nqaij nyoos, khoom noj siv mis, qhob cij thiab khoom noj, khoom qab zib, tshuaj yej, kas fes, npias thiab cawv thiab vodka khoom (20-30 hom vodkas, cognacs, tinctures).

Cov txiaj ntsig ntawm kev siv lub tsev lag luam zoo li no yog ob peb yam. Ua ntej, muaj qhov txwv, tab sis cov khoom lag luam zoo thiab ruaj khov. Qhov tseem ceeb yog me ntsis dag. Cov nqi ntawm cov khoom no tau kho nyob rau theem ntawm 1930s. Txhua tus neeg "nkag mus" rau lub tsev lag luam tau txais ib phau ntawv nrog kua muag daim coupons nyob rau hauv tus nqi ntawm txog 150 rubles ib hlis (tsawg kawg, tus nom tswv muaj, hais, ob zaug ntau npaum li cas). Ntawm lawv, nws tuaj yeem noj su hauv chav noj mov, lossis noj "qhuav" zaub mov hauv khw.

Nws yog qhov tseeb tias 99% nyiam qhov kev xaiv tom kawg. Yog li ntawd, ib tug neeg yuav khoom luv luv ntawm tus nqi kwv yees li 2 npaug qis dua lub xeev. Qhov ntawd ua rau nws tuaj yeem txuag tau txog li ib feem peb ntawm cov nyiaj hli ib hlis, ntxiv rau tsis txhob txhawj txog tsev neeg cov zaub mov. Yuav ua li cas tsis txaus ntseeg cov cai ntawm "nomenklatura" ntawm xyoo 1970 thiab 1980s saib nyob rau hauv kev sib piv nrog cov zais cia thiab pom tseeb ntau lab daus las "ration" ntawm cov nom tswv niaj hnub no!

Lwm qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev noj qab haus huv-kev coj noj coj ua ntawm Soviet cookery yog kev siv ib qho kev zoo nkauj ntawm Soviet.… Los ntawm txoj kev, tej zaum yog vim li cas txhua yam Soviet niaj hnub no evokes xws li nostalgia, txawm nyob rau hauv cov tub ntxhais hluas uas tsis tau pom ib yam dab tsi Soviet nyob rau hauv lawv lub neej. Tab sis qhov no yog hnub no. Thiab tom qab ntawd kev zoo nkauj yog lub cuab yeej muaj zog rau kev tshaj tawm kev xav, cwj pwm, tswv yim. Cov ntawv tshaj tawm thiab cov ntawv tshaj tawm suav tsis txheeb, cov duab kos duab hauv ntawv xov xwm thiab cov ntawv sau zaub mov tau tsim ib qho kev sib koom ua ke rau kev noj qab haus huv thiab sib npaug. Ntau tus twb tau nkag siab tias qhov no yog ib hom kev muaj tiag sib npaug uas tsis tshua muaj sib xws nrog kev muaj tiag socialist. Tab sis lub tswv yim kev xav tau muaj zog, lub ntiaj teb no tsis tseeb yog tsim los ntawm tag nrho cov kos duab Soviet.

Ib qho piv txwv ntawm cov yeeb yaj kiab "Kuban Cossacks" (1950) tau raug hu kom "tsim" lub neej zoo nkauj uas cov neeg txawj ntse thiab muaj zog ua haujlwm ntawm cov neeg ua liaj ua teb millionaire. Qhov twg tus thawj coj ntxim nyiam ua los ntawm Sergei Lukyanov, rub lub pob ntseg hnyav ntawm cov nplej hauv nws txhais tes, taug kev los ntawm cov teb tsis muaj qhov kawg. Thiab nws sib tw ntawm kev ncaj ncees nrog lwm tus thawj tswj hwm - Marina Ladynina - uas muaj cov khoom nplua nuj: geese thiab npua, txiv tsawb thiab yob.

Los ntawm txoj kev, ua tib zoo mloog. Qhov kev zoo nkauj ntawm cov duab ua noj hauv USSR tsis zoo ib yam dhau sijhawm. Nyob rau xyoo 1920 thiab 1930, muaj cov Lavxias teb sab avant-garde, Mayakovsky cov paj huam tshaj tawm, cov ntawv tshaj tawm nyob rau hauv lub ci ntsa iab zoo nkauj: "Tus neeg ua haujlwm, sib ntaus rau chav noj mov huv, noj qab haus huv!", "Kub nrog kev ua qhev hauv chav ua noj!" thiab lwm yam ntsiab lus tau tsom tsis yog kev txhawb nqa khoom noj lossis khoom noj khoom haus, tab sis ntawm kev txhim kho lub neej thiab tus cwj pwm. Nws yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws uas yog qhov tseem ceeb hauv kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov tub ceev xwm Soviet.

Thaum xyoo 1930s, lub suab ntawm kev tshaj tawm tau hloov pauv. Qhov tseeb, txog thaum nruab nrab xyoo 1950, nws yog apotheosis ntawm kev tshaj tawm khoom noj khoom haus. Uas, nyob rau hauv dav dav, yog heev to taub. Qhov pib ntawm txoj kev tshiab ntawm lub neej muaj ntau dua los sis tsawg dua cov hauv paus. Tab sis lwm lub ntsiab lus - lub luag hauj lwm ntawm lub xeev nyob rau hauv kev noj haus ntawm cov pejxeem - tau ua predominant. Tsoom fwv thiab tsoom nom tswv yog cov neeg muaj nyiaj txiag tiag tiag. Thiab kev lag luam khoom noj khoom haus, tswj xyuas kom zoo los ntawm lawv, yog qhov khoom noj khoom haus thiab khoom siv tsis txaus.

Thov nco ntsoov: txhua daim ntawv tshaj tawm yuav tsum qhia lub tuam tsev ua haujlwm rau kev tshaj tawm cov khoom.

"Nws yog lub sij hawm rau txhua leej txhua tus los sim yuav ua li cas qab thiab kev sib tw ntawm crabs!" - ib tug poj niam hluas ntxias peb los ntawm daim ntawv tshaj tawm nco txog xyoo 1930 los ntawm A. Miller. Nyob rau hauv xyoo tas los no, Soviet cov neeg yuav khoom tau paub txog ntau yam khoom tshiab los ntawm kev tshaj tawm: cov zaub khov thiab cov ntses tshiab, cov kua mis pasteurized hauv iav fwj, zaub mov concentrates rau instant porridge, kua zaub, jelly thiab confectionery khoom, mayonnaise, npaj txhij dumplings, thiab hnyuv ntxwm.

Xyoo 1960s tau hloov pauv Soviet ua noj ua haus zoo nkauj. Es tsis txhob, lawv yooj yim sharply curtail nws. Muaj tsawg dua thiab tsawg tshaj tawm rau wines, semi-tiav khoom, feem ntau - rau tag nrho cov khoom kab. Ob peb qhov tshwj xeeb yog cov khoom lag luam uas tau nthuav tawm los ntawm cov tub ceev xwm, tsim los txo qhov tsis txaus ntawm txhua yam khoom noj. Nyob rau hauv Khrushchev, nws yog ubiquitous pob kws, "tus poj huab tais ntawm teb" thiab lub hauv paus ntawm txhua yam kev loj hlob nyob rau hauv kev noj haus. Nyob rau hauv Brezhnev, cov ntses dej hiav txwv thiab cov nqaij nruab deg tau dhau los ua lwm txoj hauv kev rau cov tais diav hauv cov ntsiab lus ntawm kev kub ntxhov hauv kev ua liaj ua teb.

Thiab nyob rau xyoo 1970 thiab 80s, muaj kev ntsiag to ntawm sab xub ntiag ntawm kev ua noj ua haus thiab kev zoo nkauj. Qee lub sij hawm erupting khoom motives yog ib qho kev sib ntaus sib tua tsis kawg rau kev sau qoob loo, los yog kev sib ntaus tawm tsam "thugs" hauv kev tsim khoom, lossis kev tsim txom kev thuam ntawm "khoom siv" thiab philistinism. Cov Soviet euphemisms rau qhov yooj yim tib neeg lub siab xav rau ib txwm, ruaj ntseg lub neej.

Lub neej ib txwm muaj … Tab sis nws yog qhov tseeb lub tswv yim no ua tiav qhov tsis paub meej ntawm Soviet cuisine, uas peb tab tom xav txog tam sim no. Nws yog nws mus rau qhov kawg thiab folds no tib nesting menyuam roj hmab. Peb chav ua noj yog ib qho ntawm cov ntsiab lus ntawm kev tshaj tawm ntawm Soviet txoj kev ntawm lub neej. Nws tau tsim los ua kom pom tias tib neeg zoo siab npaum li cas hauv USSR, kev noj qab haus huv thiab noj qab haus huv ntawm cov khoom nws noj, nws lub neej zoo nkauj npaum li cas.

Txog rau ib lub sijhawm, nws ua haujlwm. Tom qab tag nrho, lub neej niaj hnub ntawm ib lub zej zog yog tsis pom. Thiab nyob rau hauv qhov kev nkag siab no, tsis yog txhua tus pej xeem Soviet tuaj yeem kwv yees li cas Asmeskas thiab Fab Kis nyob thiab noj nyob ntawd. Ntxiv rau, cia peb muab nws bluntly, ib feem me me ntawm cov neeg Soviet tau suav tias yog zaub mov thaum lub sijhawm ntawd yog ib yam khoom tsim nyog tham txog. Ntawd yog, tsuav yog txhua yam nrog zaub mov ntau dua lossis tsawg dua, qhov teeb meem tsis nyob hauv qhov tsom teeb. Nws tsuas yog thaum tag nrho cov kev tsis txaus ntseeg ua ke nrog kev tsis txaus siab nrog kev sib raug zoo lub tswv yim uas Soviet qauv pib poob thiab poob qhov chaw.

Thaum kawg, nws yog qhov kev sib tw - ob lub ntiaj teb, ob txoj kev ua neej - uas tau faus tag nrho lub tebchaws Soviet.