Dab tsi tib neeg yog ua los ntawm: tsis yog tus qauv ua haujlwm ntawm cov kws ua yeeb yam

2024 Tus sau: Seth Attwood | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 16:06

Grotesque costumes ntawm crafts thiab cov hauj lwm yog ib hom thawj ntawm painting thiab graphics uas nyiam cov neeg ua yeeb yam los ntawm ntau lub teb chaws thiab eras.

Lub grotesque - ua ke ntawm kev npaj txhij txog thiab txawv txawv, overly exaggerated thiab feem ntau zoo heev dluab - yog ib tug txheej txheem ntawm baroque art. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog txaus siab yog ib hom ntawv nyeem ntawm lub collective portrait, muaj li ntawm tej yam uas yog tus neeg raug portrayed. Ua raws li lub hauv paus ntsiab lus "Kuv nqa txhua yam nrog kuv" (lat. Omnia meum mecum porto), cov kws ua yeeb yam tau tsim tag nrho cov ntawv sau ua piv txwv ntawm tib neeg lub cev.

Tus tswv Italian Giuseppe Arcimboldo yog ib txwm suav tias yog tus tsim ntawm hom ntawv. Li no lub npe dav dav ntawm tej hauj lwm - "arcimboldeski". Cov duab nto moo "Tus Librarian" nthuav tawm cov duab zoo nkauj anthropomorphic, tsim los ntawm phau ntawv ntim.

Cov duab no yog txhais raws li ib tug fantasy portrait ntawm Austrian historiographer Wolfgang Lazius los yog raws li ib tug allegorical irony tshaj lub tswv yim ntawm lub ntiaj teb no catalog ntawm cov phau ntawv embodied nyob rau hauv lub Bibliotheca universalis los ntawm Swiss zaum Konrad Gessner. Qee tus kws tshaj lij pom daim duab no yog qhov tsis tseem ceeb ntawm kev thuam ntawm kev xav tsis thoob ntawm phau ntawv sau thiab kev paub txog kev txawj ntse.

Giuseppe Arcimboldo Librarian, 1562. Source: commons.wikimedia.org

Cov kws tshaj lij kos duab xav txog kev hnav khaub ncaws grotesque kom hloov maj mam satire, tus qauv ntawm caricature. Cov ntawv no tau lees paub los ntawm daim ntawv tiv thaiv Catholic tawm xyoo 1577 los ntawm Swiss Protestant tus kws sau ntawv thiab kos duab Tobias Stimmer.

Nyob rau hauv lub pretentiously grotesque duab ntawm Gorgon Medusa, tsis muaj lwm yam tshaj li Pope Gregory III tshwm. Nws daim duab tag nrho yog ib pawg ntawm cov khoom siv hauv tsev teev ntuj Catholic. Lub taub hau monstrous yog framed nrog satirical dluab ntawm cov tsiaj illustrating lub vices ntawm cov txiv plig. Nyob rau hauv ib lub tuam txhab nrog ib tug predatory hma, ib tug ntshaw npua thiab avarious goose, muaj ib tug bespectacled nees luav, uas stares ntawm ib phau ntawv, feigning kev kawm.

Tobias Shtimmer "Head of the Gorgon", 1670. Source: commons.wikimedia.org

Nyob rau hauv 1624 Italian printmaker thiab painting Giovanni Battista Bracelli luam tawm ib phau ntawm 47 prints, Bizzarie di Varie Figure. Ntawm lub cev cubic daim duab muaj allegories ntawm crafts: bricklayer, barber, grinder, tswb ringer. Cov nplua nuj ntawm cov xim thiab roundness ntawm cov contours inherent hauv Archimboldo tus yam ntxwv yog hloov los ntawm kev hais txog schematism thiab hnyav ntawm cov kab, vividly nco txog lub primitive mannequins uas tau siv los ntawm cov neeg ua yeeb yam nyob rau lub sij hawm ntawd raws li kev pab qhia pom.

Giovanni Battista Bracelli "Bizzarie di varie daim duab", 1624, nplooj 27. Source: internationaltimes.it

Giovanni Battista Bracelli "Bizzarie di varie daim duab", 1624, nplooj ntawv 45. Source: internationaltimes.it

Bracelli lub tswv yim yog txuas ntxiv los ntawm cov duab kos los ntawm Fabkis tus tswv Nicolas de Larmessen, tsim nyob ib ncig ntawm 1695, hu ua Costumes grotesques, Les costumes grotesques et les métiers, Habits des métiers et professionals.

Thaum pib, nws muaj 97 stylized portraits ntawm cov neeg sawv cev ntawm ntau yam tshwj xeeb. Ntawm no tsis yog "los rau lub neej" cov cuab yeej siv tes ua thiab cov cwj pwm, tab sis cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj, uas tuaj yeem siv los kawm cov chav kawm tshaj lij. Tej zaum, ntxiv rau qhov grotesque, cov duab no kuj muaj lub ntsiab lus txaus ntshai lossis ua haujlwm rau kev kawm.

Nicolas de Larmessen, Personalifications of Medicine, Pharmacy and Surgery, 1695. Source: commons.wikimedia.org

Cov duab zoo nkauj ntawm tus kws kho mob yog tsim los ntawm cov haujlwm ntawm Hippocrates thiab Galen, kev kho mob medieval ntawm Avicenna thiab haiv neeg, thiab lwm yam kev kho mob luminaries. Los ntawm lub qhov ncauj ntawm tus kws kho mob tuaj teem sij hawm kho mob thiab tshuaj nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm xob laim: "Enemas. Ntshav. Laxatives. Emetics … ".

Nyob ze ntawm lub rooj yog ib lub hwj tso zis, ib lub tais steaming ntawm tej yam tshuaj, thiab ib daim ntawv qhia nrog ib daim ntawv teev cov tshuaj ntsuab. Nyob rau ntawm lub taub hau ntawm tus kws muag tshuaj muaj ib tug distillation lub voos xwmfab los yog distillation flask, nyob rau hauv lub hauv siab muaj cov hnab ntawm cov tshuaj roj, ob txhais ceg yog ua los ntawm jars ntawm cream thiab syrups. Tus neeg mob ntawm tus kws phais mob muaj cov ntaub qhwv, forceps, clamps, daim iav kho mob …

Nicolas de Larmessen "Artist's costume". Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

Nicolas de Larmessen "Tus kws lij choj foob". Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

Ib qho tsis ntev los no, tab sis tsis muaj tsawg dua piv txwv yog sau cov xim luam tawm los ntawm German artist Martin Engelbrecht. Cov no yog ib hom kev txhawb siab ntawm cov khoom ntawm kev txawj ntse. Ntawm no yog ib tug neeg muag ntawv nyob rau hauv ib tug luxurious bibliotheque. Thiab ntawm no yog dapper bookbinder, tsim los ntawm cov cuab yeej bookbinding, npaj-ua thiab tseem tsis tau khi cov phau ntawv. Cov cuab yeej feem ntau raug suav thiab kos npe rau hauv qab hauv ntau hom lus.

Martin Engelbrecht, The Personification of the Bookselling, circa 1730. Source: rijksmuseum.nl

Bookbinder's costume, engraving los ntawm ib tug tsis paub tus tswv los ntawm tus thawj los ntawm M. Engelbrecht, 1708-1756. Tau qhov twg los: rijksmuseum.nl

Cov khaub ncaws grotesque tau xav txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev txawj ntse ntawm Baroque hauv nws txoj kev nrhiav kev tsis txaus ntseeg ntawm lub ntiaj teb kev nkag siab, kev sib raug zoo thiab kev sib txawv nyob mus ib txhis.

Txhua yam tau txais txiaj ntsig nrog lub ntsiab lus ntawm lub cim thiab ua ib qho kev piav qhia. Nws kuj yog ib qho kev zoo nkauj tshwj xeeb ntawm kev xav tsis thoob, raws li kev sib xyaw ua ke thiab txawv txawv ntawm cov khoom thiab cov ntsiab lus. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov tsis meej pem - txawm tias qhov xav tsis thoob tshaj plaws - tau nkag siab hauv lub ntsiab lus. Ib qho khoom tseem ceeb yuav tsum tau kwv yees tsis muaj tseeb hauv nws.

Martin Engelbrecht "Lub Butcher's Suit". Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

Martin Engelbrecht "Tus Gardener's Suit". Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

Ib hom ntawv ntawm grotesque costume kuj nyiam cov neeg ua yeeb yam tom qab. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19, London-based publisher Samuel William Force tau luam tawm ib tug series ntawm exquisite aquatints, Hieroglyphs, nrog fantasy depictions ntawm txoj hauj lwm. Suab paj nruag, kws txiav plaub hau, florist, cooper, kws sau ntawv - lawv lub taub hau yog ua los ntawm cov cuab yeej paub.

Hatter, Cooper, Blacksmith, Carpenter, circa 1800. Source: wellcomecollection.org

Florist, writer, musician, hairdresser, circa 1800. Source: wellcomecollection.org

Xyoo 1831, tus kws kos duab kos duab Askiv thiab kws kho mob George Spratt tau tso tawm ib qho ntawm grotesque "personifications" nyob rau hauv lub siab ntawm Archimboldes. Cov duab ntawm tib neeg yog tsim los ntawm cov khoom siv thiab cov cwj pwm ntawm lawv cov khoom siv tes ua lossis cov khoom uas lawv koom nrog. Cov duab kos tau luam tawm los ntawm tus kws tshaj lij London lithographer George Edward Madely thiab tau ua tiav zoo, ua rau cov pej xeem xav tsis thoob nrog lawv cov txuj ci thiab originality ntawm kev tsim. Spratt cov xim lithographs tseem nyiam cov khoom khaws cia rau hnub no.

Ib tug physiognomist nrog lub cev ntawm lub ntsej muag kuaj xyuas cov yam ntxwv ntawm tib neeg los ntawm kev xa mus rau ib daim duab qhia. Apothecary lub kaus mom - mortar nrog pestle rau kev npaj sib tsoo; caj npab thiab txhais ceg - tshuaj rhawv zeb - hwj; tsho tiv no - nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ib tug ntsuas lub tog raj kheej thiab ib tug txiav rau cov ntsiav tshuaj.

George Spratt "Physiognomist". Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

George Spratt Lub Wandering Apothecary. Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

Cov duab ntau xim ntawm ib tug mineralogist yog tsim los ntawm pob zeb. Thiab lub tsev qiv ntawv txawb - nyob zoo rau Engelbrecht! - yog ib tug poj niam zoo nkauj ua los ntawm cov ntawv. Cov tsev qiv ntawv zoo li no (eng. Circulating library) tso cai nyeem cov ntawv sau tshiab thiab cov ntawv tshaj tawm tshwj xeeb rau tus nqi.

George Spratt Mineralogist. Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

George Spratt Lub Circulating Library. Tau qhov twg los: commons.wikimedia.org

Andre de Barro "The Bookseller", lig 20th caug xyoo. Tau qhov twg los: artchive.ru

Baroque wit kuj yog qhov xav tau hauv kev kos duab niaj hnub. Cov kev hloov pauv tam sim no ntawm Giuseppe Arcimboldo qhov kev xav yog cov haujlwm ntawm Fab Kis tus kws kos duab surrealist Andre de Barro.