Old Russian cuisine

2024 Tus sau: Seth Attwood | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-12-16 16:06

Nws tsis yog ib qho zais cia rau leej twg tias peb cov keeb kwm tag nrho yog cuav thiab qee qhov keeb kwm yav dhau los thiab qhov tseeb muaj qhov tsis muaj tseeb thiab tsis muaj tseeb, ntau ntawm lawv yog cov lus dag tsis tseeb. Tsis muaj ib sab ntawm pej xeem lub neej uas tsis tau kov los ntawm tus cwj mem ntawm kev ntshaw los ntawm keeb kwm.

Lub hav zoov ntawm kev tswj hwm veche hauv lub nroog Novgorod tau raug sau tseg thaum ntxov li 362 (!). Thiab yog tias muaj ib lub nroog, muaj kev lag luam thiab khoom siv tes ua. Lavxias teb sab morocco, qhov twg saffron tau siv los ua xim liab. Contrary to lub tswv yim tsim, txuj lom tau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv Russia ntau ua ntej lub hnub poob tau paub nrog lawv. Txawm tias cov npe ntawm cov tais diav hais tias: Lub pob ntseg nrog cloves hu ua pob ntseg dub, nrog kua txob dawb, thiab tsis muaj txuj lom, liab qab. Thiab kev siv cov txuj lom rau dej qab zib thiab zib mu mus yam tsis hais. Tab sis nyob rau hauv kev txiav txim …

Lavxias teb sab cuisine yeej ib txwm yog lub teb chaws ntshiab, uas yog, nws yog raws li kev lis kev cai, tsis yog kos duab. Tus kws ua zaub mov zoo tshaj plaws yog tus uas tuaj yeem siv rau hauv kev noj zaub mov ntawm txhua yam khoom los ntawm kev sau los ntawm hav zoov, zaub zaub, los ntawm kev tua nyuj, i.e. nws yog ib qho pov tseg-dawb "tsim". Yog li ntawd, cov kev hloov hauv cov tais diav tau qhia imperceptibly, nyob rau hauv ib lub npe yuav muaj tag nrho cov hom ntawm fillers thiab cov khoom xyaw.

Nyob rau hauv Russia, lawv noj feem ntau rye qhob cij, nws yog ib feem ntawm txhua lub rooj, thiab txawm tias tom qab tsim lub huab tais, nws yog nyiam rau txhua leej txhua tus. Cov Russians txawm nyiam nws rau hom qoob mog, ua rau muaj txiaj ntsig ntau ntxiv rau nws. Lub npe "bread" txhais tau tias rye nws tus kheej. Qee zaum, txawm li cas los xij, barley tau tov nrog rye hmoov, tab sis qhov no tsis tuaj yeem yog txoj cai tas li, vim tias tsis muaj barley txaus.

Tom qab lub advent ntawm Christianity, nplej hmoov tau siv rau prosphora, thiab nyob rau hauv lub tsev lub neej rau yob, uas yog feem ntau yog ib tug delicacy rau cov neeg nyob rau hnub so - qhov no yog vim li cas cov paj lug: "Koj tsis tau lure ib yob". Qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntau yam ntawm yob yog ci los ntawm hmoov loj nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm me me rings - lwm yam yog ua los ntawm crushed hmoov, nyob rau hauv round yob: cov yob no hu ua fraternal; muaj ib tug thib peb hom, hu ua mixed rolls: lawv tau ci los ntawm cov hmoov nplej nyob rau hauv ib nrab nrog rye.

Qhov no tau ua tiav tsis tsuas yog tawm ntawm qhov tsis txaus, tab sis lawv pom qhov tshwj xeeb saj hauv qhov sib tov: xws li yob tau txais kev pab rau tsar lub rooj. Feem ntau, breads, ob qho tib si rye thiab hom qoob mog, tau npaj tsis muaj ntsev, thiab lawv ib txwm saib xyuas tias cov hmoov nplej tshiab.

Domostroy, tus qauv ntawm tus tswv ntawm lub xyoo pua 16th, qhia kom ci qhob cij feem ntau los ntawm cov hmoov nplej, uas twb dhau los ua qhov tseem ceeb, thiab qhia kom muab cov hmoov nplej tib yam li qiv rau txhua tus neeg thov. Txawv teb chaws chroniclers ntawm keeb kwm xa mus rau nws thaum characterizing lub neej ntawm cov neeg ntawm Russia. Thiab "Domostroy Sylvester" piav qhia txog cov txheej txheem khaws cia thiab ntxuav cov zaub mov, yog li nws pom zoo kom siv cov hmoov txhuv nplej siab rau cov tsiaj txhu, thiab siv cov zaub mov huv xwb.

Txij li thaum ancient sij hawm, oatmeal ua los ntawm oat hmoov nrog kvass los yog dej tau nyob rau hauv zoo siv ntawm cov neeg, nyob rau hauv daim ntawv qhuav nws tau txais kev pab raws li cov zaub mov tseem ceeb ntawm kev mus ncig ua si ntev thiab kev sib tw, los ntawm 15th - 16th centuries nws tau tso tawm rau cov neeg rau zaub mov. nrog rau rye hmoov.

Qhov nrov tshaj plaws maj nyob rau hauv Russia yog pies. Cov zaub mov thoob ntiaj teb no qee zaum hloov khob cij, ua haujlwm thib ob, khoom qab zib thiab delicacy. Tej zaum yog vim li cas lub assortment ntawm cov tais diav yog scarce nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab cuisine. Tom qab tag nrho, lub filling ntawm pies kuj yog tag nrho cov nqaij thiab ntses cov khoom nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov hom ntawm kev ua los yog npaj, zaub, nceb, txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab berries. Yog li ntawd, lawv ci txawv.

Raws li txoj kev ntawm ci, lawv tau ci (kib hauv roj) thiab hearth. Lub hearths yeej ib txwm ua los ntawm leavened mov paj, tej zaum spun los ntawm leavened mov paj, qee zaum los ntawm unleavened. Rau lawv, lawv siv cov hmoov nplej, gritty los yog crushed, nyob ntawm seb qhov tseem ceeb ntawm lub hnub thaum lawv npaj, rye pies kuj ci.

Tag nrho Lavxias teb sab pies nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm muaj ib tug oblong duab thiab txawv qhov ntau thiab tsawg; cov loj hu ua pies, me pies. Lawv tau ntim nrog yaj, nqaij nyuj thiab hare nqaij, qaib los yog ua ke ntawm ntau hom nqaij, xws li yaj thiab nqaij nyuj lard, kuj nqaij thiab ntses ua ke, nrog rau ntxiv ntawm porridge los yog noodles. Nyob rau hnub so, lawv ci yarn pies nrog tsev cheese thiab qe nyob rau hauv cov mis nyuj, nyob rau hauv nyuj butter, nrog ntses nrog rau cov qe qe, los yog nrog lub cev, raws li cov ntses tais hu ua, npaj nyob rau hauv ib hom cutlets.

Nyob rau lub caij ntuj sov, pies tau ci nrog txhua hom ntses, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nrog cov ntses dawb, khoom noj txom ncauj, dodoga, tsuas yog ntses mis nyuj lossis nrog vziga, hauv cov roj hemp, noob poppy lossis walnut roj, cov ntses crushed nrog porridge los yog nrog Saracen millet. Ntawm cov filling ntawm pies, nceb tau hais, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nrog nceb, nrog poppy noob, peas, kua txiv, turnips, nceb, cabbage, nyob rau hauv ib co zaub roj, los yog qab zib nrog raisins thiab lwm yam berries.

Cov ncuav qab zib tau ci tsis yog ncuav qab zib rau hnub so. Feem ntau, pies, tshwj tsis yog cov qab zib, tau txais kev pab nrog ib qho kub: ntawm ob peb hom ntses kua zaub.

Lwm hom pastry ua los ntawm mov paj yog loaf - butter qhob cij, nrog rau ntau txoj kev npaj. Muaj ib lub ncuav tawg, uas raug ntaus nrog butter nyob rau hauv ib lub nkoj, teem - nyob rau hauv ib hom ncuav mog qab zib ntawm mis nyuj, yatsky ntawm ib tug loj tus naj npawb ntawm qe, ib tug loaf nrog cheese, ib tug kwv tij loaf, thiab hais txog. Qe, butter, los yog nqaij nyuj lard, cheese thiab mis nyuj ua ib qho ntxiv rau lub loaf, thiab nws ntau hom nyob ntawm seb cov hmoov nplej ntau npaum li cas thiab nrog rau qhov nws tau muab tso rau thiab ntau npaum li cas. (prototypes ntawm niaj hnub Italian pizzas).

Biscuits ua los ntawm khob noom cookie muaj xws li: kurnik, ib lub npe tom qab rau pasta, khoom nrog nqaij qaib, qe, yaj nrog butter los yog nqaij nyuj lard. Aladi (pancakes), cauldron, cheese ncuav, pancakes, brushwood, jelly. Aladyas tau ua los ntawm gritty hmoov, qe, nyuj butter, qee zaum tsis muaj qe nrog txiv laum huab xeeb thiab feem ntau tau txais kev pab nrog molasses, qab zib lossis zib ntab.

Aladyas loj loj tau hu ua clerical aladias, vim hais tias lawv tau coj mus rau cov neeg ua haujlwm ua kev nco txog. Ib lub tais zoo sib xws tau ua los ntawm cov cauldron, uas txawv ntawm aladeya nyob rau hauv uas cov qe nyob rau hauv nws yog tsawg; nws tau txais kev pab nrog molasses. Cheesecakes tau npaj los ntawm tsev cheese, qe, mis nyuj nrog ib tug me me ntawm gritty hmoov.

Pancakes tau ua liab thiab mis nyuj: thawj los ntawm buckwheat, qhov thib ob los ntawm cov hmoov nplej; mis nyuj thiab qe tau suav nrog hauv qib kawg. Pancakes tsis yog ib feem ntawm Shrovetide tog, raws li tam sim no - lub cim ntawm buttermonger yog yav tas los cheese pies thiab brushwood, - stretched mov paj nrog butter. Lawv kuj ci khob noom cookie, levashniki, ci khoom, ceev: tag nrho cov hom no tau txais kev pab nyob rau hauv roj, nyuj, hemp, txiv ntseej, poppy.

Kissels tau ua los ntawm oat thiab nplej hmoov thiab pab nrog mis nyuj.

Porridge tau npaj los ntawm cereals - oat los yog buckwheat, millet porridge yog tsawg. Ntawm cov khoom noj siv mis, lawv siv cov noodles boiled nrog tshiab, ci mis nyuj, varenets, ntau hom mis nyuj porridge, spongy cheese ua los ntawm tsev cheese nrog qaub cream, thiab qaub cheese.

Nqaij cov tais diav yog boiled los yog kib. Cov boiled tau txais kev pab nyob rau hauv pieces, ntses kua zaub, brine, thiab nyob rau hauv tawg; shti whitened nrog qaub cream thaum ua noj, thiab tsis nyob ntawm lub rooj. (Tus sau ntawv: shti - txiav txim los ntawm cov lus piav qhia, qhov no yog universal concentrated broth, nyob rau hauv uas zaub, cereals thiab lwm yam khoom tau ntxiv raws li xav tau. lub cauldron thiab muab tso rau hauv qhov cub kom simmer thaum hmo ntuj, thaum sawv ntxov tau txais cov khoom tiav).

Ib txwm welding rau daim yog cabbage thiab tws cabbage, tshiab thiab qaub cabbage. Buckwheat los yog lwm yam porridge tau txais kev pab nrog daim.

Ukhoi hu ua kua zaub los yog stew. Ib tug loj tus naj npawb ntawm cov txuj lom sib txawv belongs rau Lavxias teb sab ntses kua zaub nyob rau hauv ntau hom: - pob ntseg nrog ib tug clove hu ua pob ntseg dub, nrog dawb kua txob, thiab tsis muaj txuj lom, liab qab. Lub brine yog ib hom ntawm niaj hnub no hodgepodge: nqaij tau siav nyob rau hauv dib brine nrog ib tug admixture ntawm txuj lom. Txhua hom ntses hu ua zvar.

Fried nqaij tais tau spun, thib rau, ci, lauj kaub. Lamb yog hom zaub mov ntau tshaj plaws los ntawm lub caij nplooj ntoos hlav mus rau lub caij nplooj zeeg lig. Domostroy tau qhia yuav ua li cas nrog mutton nqaij: tau yuav ib tug tag nrho cov yaj, nws yog tsim nyog los tev nws tawm thiab faib nws cov nqaij rau ob peb hnub; brisket tau txais kev pab ntawm pob ntseg los yog sht; lub xub pwg hniav thiab ob lub raum tau txais kev pab ntawm kib; Cov hooks tau txais kev pab nyob rau hauv hluav taws, ob txhais ceg tau ntim nrog qe, caws pliav nrog porridge, lub siab yog excised nrog dos thiab qhwv nrog ib daim nyias nyias, kib nyob rau hauv ib lub lauj kaub, lub ntsws yog siav nrog shaken mis nyuj, hmoov thiab qe, lub paj hlwb. raug tshem tawm ntawm lub taub hau thiab ua rau hauv ib qho tshwj xeeb stew los yog sauce nrog cov txuj lom, thiab txias jelly tau npaj los ntawm thickly boiled ntses kua zaub nrog yaj nqaij, muab tso rau hauv dej khov.

Barley nyuj tau siv rau nqaij nyug, yog li nqaij nyug feem ntau nteg lub npe ntawm yalovichina nyob rau hauv cov hnub qub. Yalovits yuav nyob rau hauv lub caij nplooj zeeg thiab tua, cov nqaij yog salted rau zoo, thiab cov offal, uas daim di ncauj, pob ntseg, lub plawv, ceg, siab, nplaig raug suav, tau txais kev pab rau txhua txhua hnub zaub mov thiab pab nyob rau hauv jelly, nyob rau hauv cov nqaij, nrog porridge, rau kib. Feem ntau, Russians noj cov nqaij nyug tshiab me ntsis, thiab noj cov nqaij nyug qab ntsev.

Ntau tus npua khaws lawv cov npua hauv lawv cov vaj thiab ua rau lawv loj hlob thoob plaws hauv lub xyoo, thiab ua ntej huab cua loj heev (Lub Kaum Hli, Kaum Ib Hlis) lawv tau pricked. Nqaij npuas nqaij yog salted los yog haus luam yeeb thiab cov nqaij npua yog siv rau lub caij ntuj no shti, thiab lub taub hau, ob txhais ceg, plab hnyuv, plab tau txais kev pab tshiab nyob rau hauv ntau yam kev npaj, xws li: lub taub hau nyob rau hauv lub jelly nrog qej thiab horseradish, sausages yog tsim los ntawm cov hnyuv., stuffing lawv nrog ib tug sib tov ntawm nqaij, buckwheat porridge, hmoov thiab qe. Ham thiab nqaij npua tau sau tau ntau xyoo.

Hares tau txais kev pabcuam scented (tooj dag), pickled (boiled nyob rau hauv brine), thiab nyob rau hauv boils, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog qab zib sawv daws yuav. Muaj cov neeg uas xav tias hares yog tsiaj tsis huv, zoo li tam sim no, tab sis lwm tus piav qhia tias tsis yog kev txhaum noj hare, koj tsuas yog yuav tsum tau saib kom nws tsis txhob strangled thaum lub sij hawm tsim txom. Stoglav, echoing cov qub zaub mov txawv (txoj cai), txwv tsis pub muag hares ntawm lub auction yam tsis tau los ntshav. Tib yam lus ceeb toom tau tshaj tawm los ntawm Moscow Patriarch xyoo 1636, tab sis tsis muaj qhov twg pom tias lub tsev teev ntuj tau tawm tsam kev siv hares rau zaub mov feem ntau. Nrog rau hares, qee qhov shunned, los yog tsawg kawg yog ceev faj ntawm venison thiab leggings, tab sis cov nqaij ntawm cov tsiaj no yog ib qho khoom kim heev ntawm princely thiab boyar kev ua koob tsheej …

Nqaij qaib tau txais kev pab hauv qaib, ntses kua zaub, brine, kib rau rods, skewers, hu ua los ntawm txoj kev lawv tau siav, pej xeem thiab spun. Shchi nrog nqaij qaib hu ua nplua nuj shtami thiab yeej ib txwm whitened. Fried qaib feem ntau yog nrog ib yam dab tsi qaub: vinegar los yog txiv qaub. Haus luam yeeb raffled (?) - nqaij qaib ntses nrog Saracen millet, raisins thiab ntau yam txuj lom; haus luam yeeb tsis muaj nqaij - nqaij qaib tsis muaj nqaij qaib, khoom nrog yaj los yog qe nrog saffron kua zaub (!).

Rau sumptuous noj hmo, nqaij qaib navels, caj dab, lub siab thiab lub siab tau txais kev pab nrog cov tais diav tshwj xeeb. Lwm cov noog uas siv los ua zaub mov yog ducks, geese, swans, cranes, herons, black grouse, hazel grouses, partridges, quails, and larks. Ducks - nyob rau hauv daim thiab kib, geese - thib rau, khoom nrog buckwheat thiab seasoned nrog nqaij nyuj lard, los ntawm cov geese lawv kuj npaj linen (?), uas lawv noj nyob rau lub caij ntuj no nrog horseradish thiab vinegar. Goose giblets, feem ntau los ntawm cov noog, tau mus rau pob ntseg lossis rau cov tais diav tshwj xeeb hauv qab nyuj.

Grouse, dub grouse thiab partridge - lub caij ntuj no tais diav - feem ntau tau txais kev pab: thawj seasoned nrog mis nyuj, lwm yam kib nrog plums thiab lwm yam txiv hmab txiv ntoo. Txhua lub sijhawm, swans tau suav tias yog ib qho khoom noj zoo heev: lawv tau txais kev pabcuam hauv qab lub bar nrog topshkas, uas yog, txiav rau hauv slices ntawm yob, edged nyob rau hauv nyuj butter.

Swan giblets, zoo li goose giblets, tau txais kev pabcuam hauv qab zib ntab, qee zaum nrog nqaij nyug, lossis hauv pies thiab ci khoom. Muaj ntau lwm yam kev ua si nyob rau hauv Russia thiab nws yog pheej yig, tab sis feem ntau cov Russians tsis tshua nyiam nws thiab siv me ntsis. Txhua cov nqaij muaj nws cov zaub thiab ntsim seasonings; yog li ntawd turnips mus rau hare, qej rau nqaij nyug thiab yaj, dos rau nqaij npuas.

Thaum suav cov tais diav, ib tus tsis tuaj yeem hais txog ib qho khoom qub hu ua "hangover": txiav cov nqaij yaj txias sib xyaw nrog finely tws pickles, pickle pickle, vinegar thiab kua txob; nws tau siv rau ib tug hangover.

Lavxias teb sab xeev abounded nyob rau hauv cov ntses, uas ua raws li cov zaub mov zoo tib yam rau ib nrab xyoo. Cov ntses uas muaj txiaj ntsig zoo yog: salmon coj los ntawm sab qaum teb los ntawm Korela, Shekhonskaya thiab Volga sturgeon, Volga dawb ntses, Ladoga ladoga thiab syrt, Belozersk duab thiab ntses ntawm txhua tus dej me me: pike perch, crucian carp, pike, perch, bream, char, piscari, ruffs, wands, crests, loaches.

Raws li txoj kev npaj, cov ntses yog tshiab, qhuav, qhuav, salted, sagging, windmill, chav, boiled, plucked, smoked. Raws li txoj cai kev cai mus yuav khoom noj khoom haus rau lub tsev nyob rau hauv ntau qhov ntau, ntau ntses tau muag txhua qhov chaw, siav siv ntsev.

Tus tswv tsev yuav khoom loj rau kev siv hauv tsev thiab muab tso rau hauv cellar, thiab kom nws tsis txhob deteriorate, nws dai rau saum huab cua, thiab qhov no hu ua huab cua: ces ntses twb hu ua sagging, thiab yog hais tias nws yog. zoo weathered, ces windmill.

Txij thaum ntawd los, cov ntses tsis tau muab cia rau hauv cellar, tab sis nyob rau hauv lub tshuab ziab khaub ncaws thiab rods; cov txheej ntses tau muab tso rau ntawm cov tub ceev xwm txuas nrog cov phab ntsa, thiab cov pas nrig heap hauv qab matting. Txhua lub nroog nyob rau hauv Russia nyob ze cov dej ntws, yog li ntses yog cov khoom tseem ceeb, thiab txawm nyob rau hauv lub xyoo lean - yog li lub ntsiab.

Kub ntses tais diav yog: shti, ntses kua zaub thiab pickle. Ntses kua zaub yog tsim los ntawm ntau yam ntses, feem ntau scaly sawv daws yuav, nrog rau cov ntses giblets tov nrog millet los yog cereals thiab nrog ib tug loj ntxiv ntawm kua txob, saffron thiab cinnamon (!). Raws li cov txheej txheem ntawm kev ua noj nyob rau hauv Lavxias teb sab rooj, zoo tib yam, liab, dub pob ntseg, patronizing, sluggish, qab zib, layered, distinguished, nyob rau hauv lub pob ntseg lawv pov lub hnab los yog pushers ua los ntawm mov paj nrog crushed ntses.

Sti tau ua qaub nrog cov ntses tshiab thiab ntsev, qee zaum nrog ntau hom ntses ua ke, feem ntau nrog cov ntses qhuav, hom av rau hauv cov hmoov, nrog cov tais diav kub no nrog cov ntses txhaws lossis porridge. Pickle feem ntau yog npaj los ntawm cov ntses liab: sturgeon, beluzhin thiab salmon. Nrog cov zaub mov kub, pies nrog ntau yam ntses txhaws thiab porridge tau txais kev pab.

Los ntawm cov ntses sib txawv, nrog cov dos thiab cov cag sib txawv sib xyaw ua ke, nrog rau cov khoom sib xyaw ntawm cereals lossis millet, ib lub tais hu ua ntses porridge tau npaj, qee zaum nrog cov khoom sib xyaw ntawm cov nqaij, tib lub porridge tau muab tso rau hauv pies. Lawv npaj cov ntses cutlets los ntawm ib hom ntses, tov nrog hmoov, doused nrog txiv ntseej butter, ntxiv spices thiab ci: qhov no yog hu ua ib tug ntses loaf. Fried ntses tau noj doused nrog qee yam hluav taws.

Caviar yog ib qho ntawm cov tais diav ib txwm: tshiab granular sturgeon thiab ntses dawb yog nyob rau hauv kev siv, nrog rau nias, bagged, Armenian caviar - irritating thiab wrinkled - nrog ib tug admixture ntawm caviar los ntawm lwm cov ntses, uas tau noj nrog vinegar, kua txob thiab tws. dos. Ntxiv nrog rau cov caviar nyoos, lawv kuj tau noj caviar boiled hauv vinegar los yog poppy mis nyuj thiab spun. Tsis tas li ntawd nyob rau hauv kev siv yog caviar los yog caviar pancakes: nws yog whipped, tom qab lub sij hawm sib ntaus, caviar, nrog ib tug admixture ntawm cereal hmoov, thiab ces steamed.

Raws li fillers nyob rau hauv pies los yog ntxiv rau nqaij thiab ntses, cov Russians suav nrog zaub cov khoom: lawv noj sauerkraut thiab cabbage, salted plums thiab lemons, soaked apples, beets nrog zaub roj thiab vinegar, pies nrog peas, stuffed nrog zaub tshuaj, buckwheat thiab oatmeal porridge nrog zaub roj, dos, oatmeal jelly, levashniki, pancakes nrog zib mu, loaves nrog nceb thiab millet, txhua yam boiled thiab kib nceb (buttermilk, mis nyuj nceb, Morels, nceb), ntau yam peas npaj: tawg peas, grated peas., xoob peas, pea cheese, uas yog, nyuaj-knocked crushed peas nrog zaub roj, pea hmoov noodles, poppy mis nyuj tsev cheese, horseradish, radish thiab ntau yam zaub npaj: zaub broth thiab coliva (?).

Lavxias teb sab delicacies muaj txiv hmab txiv ntoo tshiab los yog siav nyob rau hauv molasses, nrog zib mu thiab qab zib. Cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo no yog ib nrab sab qab teb (native), ib nrab tuaj. Cov tswv siv txiv apples thiab pears nyob rau hauv molasses thiab kvass, uas yog, lawv muab tso rau hauv lub thoob thiab ncuav lawv nrog molasses, ces kaw lawv, tab sis tsis nruj kom lub "qab zib tawm," los yog, tshem tawm cov txiv apples tshiab, txiav qhov nyob rau hauv lawv thiab ncuav lub molasses rau hauv lawv.

Txiv hmab txiv ntoo haus yog tsim los ntawm berries, siv nrog dej, lingonberry dej yog tsim los ntawm lingonberry. Muaj ib qho delicacy hu ua levashi: nws tau ua los ntawm raspberries, blueberries, currants thiab strawberries. Cov berries yog thawj zaug boiled, ces rubbed los ntawm ib tug sieve thiab ces boiled dua, lub sij hawm no nrog molasses, stirring thickly thaum lub sij hawm boiling, ces lawv muab cov tuab sib tov rau lub rooj tsavxwm, yav tas los oiled, thiab muab tso rau hauv lub hnub los yog tiv thaiv hluav taws; Thaum nws qhuav lawm, lawv yob nws mus rau hauv cov hlab ntsha.

Lwm qhov delicacy yog marshmallow ua los ntawm apples. Cov txiv apples tau muab tso rau hauv ib lub tais zoo thiab steamed, ces rubbed los ntawm lub sieve, muab molasses thiab steamed dua, sib tov, tuav, crumpled, ces muab tso rau ntawm ib lub rooj tsavxwm thiab cia lawv sawv, thaum kawg, muab tso rau hauv tooj liab sawv daws yuav. tinned txiv apples, cia lawv qaub, thiab muab pov tseg … Pastila kuj tau ua los ntawm lwm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab berries, piv txwv li, los ntawm viburnum.

Radish nyob rau hauv molasses tau npaj nyob rau hauv no txoj kev: ua ntej, tsis tshua muaj paus yog pleev xim rau rau hauv me me slices, tshuab mus rau knitting koob kom lub hlais tsis sib tsoo nrog lwm daim, thiab qhuav nyob rau hauv lub hnub los yog nyob rau hauv qhov cub, tom qab lub khob cij ci.; Thaum tsis muaj noo noo nyob rau hauv cov nroj tsuag, lawv pounded, sifted rau ntawm ib tug sieve, lub caij no lawv boiled molasses nyob rau hauv lub lauj kaub thiab boiling nws, ncuav nws mus rau hauv tsis tshua muaj hmoov, ntxiv ntau yam txuj lom nyob rau hauv: kua txob, nutmeg, cloves, thiab., tau kaw lub lauj kaub, muab tso rau hauv qhov cub ob hnub thiab ob hmo. Qhov sib tov no yuav tsum tuab, zoo li nias caviar thiab hu ua mazyunya; tib mash tau npaj nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev zoo sib xws los ntawm qhuav cherries.

Los ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo, uas tau coj mus rau Russia los ntawm qhov qis qis ntawm Volga, peb tau npaj cov khoom noj zoo li no: txiav cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ob ntiv tes los ntawm cov tawv ntoo rau hauv daim ntawv tsis thicker dua li daim ntawv, muab tso rau hauv lye rau ib hnub, lub caij no, cov kua txob boiled nrog kua txob., qhiav, cinnamon thiab nutmeg thiab ces muab tso rau ntawd watermelons. Melons tau npaj zoo ib yam.

Cov neeg Lavxias tau noj cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo tuaj txawv teb chaws hauv qab zib thiab molasses: raisins nrog ceg, cinnamon, figs, qhiav thiab ntau yam txuj lom. Ib qho yooj yim Lavxias teb sab delicacy yog ib tug boil ua los ntawm wine berries, raisins, hnub, cherries thiab lwm yam txiv hmab txiv ntoo nrog zib mu, qab zib los yog molasses, nrog ntau cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, qhiav thiab lwm yam txuj lom, ib hom boiled yog hu ua. zib mu (zib mu), lwm yam leavened.

Txhua hom gingerbread lossis gingerbread - cov ncuav qab zib hauv teb chaws qub yuav tsum raug ntaus nqi rau kev noj qab haus huv.

Cov dej haus siv los ntawm Russians nyob rau hauv ancient sij hawm yog kvass, txiv hmab txiv ntoo haus, npias, zib mu. Kvass tau txais kev pab raws li lub ntsiab dej haus ntawm tag nrho cov neeg. Kvass breweries thiab kvass cov neeg muag khoom kvass tuaj yeem pom nyob txhua qhov chaw hauv zos. Kvass yog ntau hom: ntxiv rau qhov yooj yim, thiaj li hu ua nplej-raws li, ua los ntawm barley los yog rye malt, muaj zib mu thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo kvass. Zib ntab yog npaj los ntawm zib mu, sifted nyob rau hauv dej, strained, nrog ib tug admixture ntawm kalach es tsis txhob ntawm poov xab, los yog fermented mis nyuj. Cov tshuaj no sawv ntsug rau qee lub sijhawm nrog yob, tom qab ntawd nws tau nchuav rau hauv cov thoob. Nws qhov zoo nyob ntawm seb hom thiab ntau npaum li cas ntawm zib mu.

Berry kvass tau ua tib yam los ntawm zib ntab thiab dej nrog ntxiv ntawm berries, cherries, noog cherry, raspberries thiab lwm yam berries. (Kvassnik yog ib qho loj ci ncuav mog qab zib malt uas ua hauj lwm raws li ib tug leaven nyob rau hauv zus tau tej cov kvass).

Thawj thiab zoo tshaj plaws Lavxias teb sab haus yog zib mu; tag nrho cov neeg taug kev uas tau mus xyuas Muscovy tau lees paub lub meej mom ntawm peb cov zib ntab thiab xa mus rau cov tebchaws nyob deb. Cov zib ntab tau boiled thiab muab tso rau; thawj zaug yog boiled, lub thib ob cia li nchuav. Nyob rau hauv tas li ntawd, raws li txoj kev ntawm kev npaj thiab txawv txuj lom, honeys muaj npe: yooj yim zib mu, unleavened zib mu, dawb, liab zib mu, obarny zib mu, boyar zib mu, berry zib mu.

Zib ntab, hu ua obarny zib mu, tau npaj raws li hauv qab no: lawv kis cov honeycomb nrog dej sov, strained los ntawm ib tug nplua sieve kom cov zib mu tau sib cais los ntawm lub hauv qab, ces muab hops nyob rau ntawd, muab ib nrab ib lub thoob ntawm hops rau ib phaus. zib mu, thiab boiled nyob rau hauv ib lub cauldron, tas li tshem tawm cov npuas dej nrog ib tug sieve, thaum cov kua no boiled mus rau lub point uas tsuas yog ib nrab ntawm nws nyob rau hauv lub boiler, ces lawv ncuav nws tawm ntawm lub boiler mus rau hauv lub ntsuas tank thiab txias. Nws tsis nyob rau hauv huab cua txias, thiab pov ib piece ntawm rye qhob cij grated nrog molasses thiab poov rau hauv nws, tso cai rau cov kua rau qaub, tsis pub kom nws kiag li oxidizes, thaum kawg lawv ncuav nws mus rau hauv tej thoob.

Boyar zib mu txawv ntawm obarny zib mu nyob rau hauv hais tias thaum lub zib mu yog dispensed, honeycomb tau noj rau lub sij hawm ntau tshaj dej; nws yog ib tug pussycat nyob rau hauv lub ntsuas tso tsheb hlau luam rau ib lub lim tiam, ces nws yog poured rau hauv ib lub thoob, qhov twg nws sawv rau lwm lub lim tiam nrog poov xab; Tom qab ntawd nws tau drained los ntawm cov poov xab, steamed nrog molasses thiab thaum kawg poured rau hauv lwm lub thoob. Berry boiled zib mu tau npaj nyob rau hauv no txoj kev: lub berries twb boiled nrog zib mu kom txog thaum lawv boiled tag (boiled down), ces qhov sib tov no raug tshem tawm ntawm hluav taws; Nws raug tso cai kom khom, ces nws yog strained, ncuav rau hauv zib mu, twb boiled nrog poov thiab hops, thiab kaw.

Cov ncuav qab zib tau npaj zoo li kvass, tab sis nrog cov poov xab lossis hops thiab yog li ntawd txawv ntawm kvass hauv lawv cov khoom hopping. Muab berry zib mu yog ib qho dej qab zib thiab qab ntxiag. Nws feem ntau yog ua thaum lub caij ntuj sov los ntawm raspberries, currants, cherries, txiv apples, thiab lwm yam.

Cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo tshiab tau muab tso rau hauv ib lub tais, ncuav nrog dej (tej zaum boiled) thiab tso cai rau sawv ntsug kom txog thaum cov dej coj los saj thiab xim ntawm berries (ob los yog peb hnub), ces lawv drained dej los ntawm berries thiab muab ntshiab. zib mu sib cais los ntawm cov quav ciab rau hauv nws, pom tias ib lub khob ntawm zib mu tawm rau ob los yog peb dej, raws li lub siab xav muab cov dej qab zib ntau los yog tsawg dua, ces lawv muab pov rau hauv muaj ob peb daim ntawm ci rind, poov xab thiab hops., thiab thaum sib tov no pib qaub, ces lawv tshem tawm lub khob cij kom nws tsis txhob noj ib tug zoo li khob cij saj, poov xab zib mu tau tso rau tsib mus rau yim hnub nyob rau hauv ib tug sov so qhov chaw, thiab ces muab tshem tawm thiab muab tso rau hauv ib tug sov so qhov chaw. qhov chaw txias. Qee qhov cuam tshuam rau qhov no: cloves, cardamom, qhiav. Cov zib ntab uas tau muab tso rau hauv cov thoob tarred thiab qee zaum muaj zog heev uas nws tsoo nws txhais taw.

Birch kua txiv los yog birch kua txiv, muab rho tawm los ntawm birch nyob rau hauv lub Plaub Hlis, koom nyob rau hauv qeb ntawm cov dej qab zib.

Lub npias, tej zaum tom qab, tau ua los ntawm barley, oats, rye thiab nplej. Nws tau brewed nyob rau hauv lub xeev breweries ntawm taverns, thiab cov neeg nplua nuj, uas tau tso cai los npaj cov dej qab zib rau lawv tus kheej, ua rau tsev neeg siv nyob rau hauv lawv cov vaj thiab khaws cia rau hauv glaciers hauv qab daus thiab dej khov. Lavxias teb sab npias, raws li neeg txawv teb chaws, yog cua, tab sis av nkos. Qee tus tswv steamed nrog molasses, uas yog, lub tiav lawm npias tau decanted los ntawm cov poov xab thiab ncuav rau hauv lwm lub thoob, ces, noj ib lub thoob ntawm no npias, ntxiv molasses nyob rau hauv, lawv boil rau boiling dej, ces txias thiab txias. ncuav rov qab rau hauv lub thoob, thiab qee zaum ntxiv cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo sib tov muaj. Cov npias tom kawg tau hu ua npias cuav.

(Txij li thaum ancient sij hawm, ib tug tavern txhais tau tias ib tug inn. Tsar Ivan IV thawj zaug qhib ib tug tavern nrog intoxicating dej qab zib rau nws guardsmen nyob rau hauv lub Balguch nyob rau hauv Moscow, uas ua rau tsis txaus siab ntawm cov neeg. Nyob rau hauv Alexei Mikhailovich, qhov tshwm sim twb tshwm sim nyob rau hauv txhua lub nroog, thiab tom qab ntawd haus pib neeg).

Ib lo lus qub Lavxias teb sab hais txog kev qaug cawv mus zoo li no:

“Kuv tsuas nchuav peb khob rau cov neeg txawj ntse xwb - ib qho rau kev noj qab haus huv, uas lawv yuav haus thawj zaug, qhov thib ob rau kev hlub thiab kev zoo siab, qhov thib peb rau kev pw tsaug zog, cov neeg txawj ntse uas tau saj nws yuav rov qab los tsev.

Lub khob thib plaub tsis yog peb li, tab sis nws yog yam ntxwv ntawm kev ua siab phem, lub thib tsib arouses suab nrov, thiab thib rau yog npau taws thiab sib ntaus sib tua."

Ntawm no yog cov neeg txawv teb chaws sau txog Russian cuisine:

Kev ua yeeb yam Lavxias teb sab muaj ntau yam tais diav, tab sis qhov impurity thiab ntau qej thiab dos tsw ua rau lawv yuav luag inedible, ntxiv rau, yuav luag tag nrho cov tais diav tau seasoned nrog hemp roj los yog lwj nyuj roj. Cov neeg txawv teb chaws hais tias cov neeg Lavxias tsuas yog cov zaub mov zoo xwb (Meyerbeer, p. 37).

Txog rau thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua puas xyoo, cov neeg Lavxias tsis paub lwm lub vaj zaub, tsuas yog cov zaub qhwv yooj yim, qej, dos, dib, radishes, beetroots thiab melons. Peb cov yawg koob tsis cog los yog noj zaub xam lav; Bruin hais tias nyob rau hauv nws lub sij hawm cov Russians pib yug me nyuam "salleri", tab sis lawv tsis paub asparagus thiab artichokes, txawm lub fact tias tus thawj loj hlob wildly nyob rau hauv lawv cov teb. Thawj artichokes tau coj mus rau St. Petersburg los ntawm Holland hauv 1715. Cov neeg Lavxias nyob rau hnub qub tsis noj nqaij nyug, los yog hare, tsis yog nqaij npua, los yog crayfish, thiab feem ntau tsis muaj dab tsi uas nws tus kheej tuag (Reitenfels, 198); lawv kuj txiav txim siab tag nrho cov tsiaj uas raug poj niam tua tsis huv.”

"Cov neeg Lavxias tsis paub yuav ua li cas ntsev ntses zoo, ib yam li lawv tsis paub yuav ua li cas tam sim no: lawv tau tsw qab; tab sis cov neeg sawv daws, raws li cov neeg txawv teb chaws hais, tsis tsuas yog tsis tig tawm ntawm nws, tab sis tseem nyiam nws tshiab. Noj ntses hauv nws txhais tes, Lavxias coj nws mus rau nws lub qhov ntswg thiab sim: nws puas stink txaus, thiab yog tias muaj ntxhiab tsw me me, ces nws muab tso rau hauv thiab hais tias: nws tseem tsis tau siav!"

Yuav ua li cas koj nyiam tus cwj pwm no, uas nyob deb heev ntawm kev muaj tiag, uas tuaj yeem pom tau yooj yim hauv cov ntawv qub thiab hauv cov ntaub ntawv:

"Thaum lub rooj hauv xyoo 1671, tus yawg suab tau muab cov khoom noj muaj txiaj ntsig zoo" brownie zaub mov hauv peb kab lus, plaub yam khoom txhua qhov: thawj tsab xov xwm: nyob chav pike, nyob chav bream, nyob chav sterlet, ntses dawb rov qab; thib ob tsab xov xwm: pancake, nyob ntses lub cev, nyob ntses pike pob ntseg, nyob ntses lub cev ncuav qab zib; Tshooj thib peb: nyob pike taub hau, ib nrab nyob sturgeon taub hau, beluga teshka; lawv coj dej qab zib: Renskoe, yog Romana, yog basr."

Tab sis li cas txog leej txiv nws tus kheej?

Yog li ntawd, Hnub Wednesday, thawj lub limtiam ntawm Great Lent (1667), zaub mov tau npaj rau tus Vaj Ntsuj Patriarch: txawm qhob cij, paposhnik, qab zib broth nrog millet thiab berries, nrog kua txob thiab saffron, horseradish, croutons, txias stamped cabbage, txias. peas, txias zobanets cranberry nrog zib mu, grated porridge nrog poppy kua txiv thiab hais txog. Nyob rau tib hnub nws raug xa mus rau yawg koob: ib khob ntawm Romaneya, ib khob ntawm Renskago, ib khob ntawm Malvasia, ib tug loj loaf ntawm mov ci, ib tug strip ntawm txiv lws suav, ib lub lauj kaub ntawm molasses nrog inbar, ib lub lauj kaub ntawm mazuli nrog inbar, peb cones ntawm kernels.

Qhov no yog qhov tseeb, thiab tib yam thoob plaws peb keeb kwm … Tab sis tseem peb yuav txuas ntxiv mus.

Nyob rau hauv ancient Russia, cov dej qab zib tau muab cia rau hauv glaciers los yog cellars, uas muaj qee zaum ob peb nyob hauv tsev. Lawv tau ua nrog cov chaw sib txawv, uas cov thoob tau muab tso rau hauv cov dej khov rau lub caij ntuj sov. Cov thoob tau cev xeeb tub los yog cev xeeb tub. Lub peev xwm ntawm ob qho tib si tsis tas li thiab tsis nyob txhua qhov chaw tib yam, feem ntau, koj tuaj yeem tso lub cev xeeb tub ntawm peb caug, thiab ib nrab cev xeeb tub hauv kaum tsib thoob.

Domostroy Silversta teev cov khoom noj khoom haus:

"Thiab nyob rau hauv lub cellar thiab nyob rau hauv lub glaciers, thiab nyob rau hauv lub cellar, qhob cij thiab kolachi, cheeses, qe, tau qhab nia, thiab dos, qej thiab txhua yam nqaij, tshiab thiab corned nyuj, thiab tshiab thiab salted ntses, thiab unleavened zib mu, thiab boiled zaub mov - nqaij, thiab ntses jelly, thiab txhua yam khoom noj khoom haus (edible) n cucumbers, thiab ntsev thiab tshiab zaub qhwv, thiab turnips, thiab txhua yam zaub, thiab nceb, n caviar, thiab tso dew, thiab kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo, Cherry molasses, thiab raspberry, thiab apples, thiab pears, thiab melons, thiab watermelons nyob rau hauv molasses, thiab plums, thiab lemons, levanniki thiab pastilles, kua kvass thiab lingonberry dej. Thiab txhua hom zib ntab, thiab npias - kib thiab yooj yim, thiab lwm yam ".

Ib lub kaum os hams thiab cov nqaij tshiab, qhuav thiab corned nqaij nyuj, txhua yam ntses, thiab salting cabbage thiab plums nyob rau hauv tej kas tham, chim ntawm txiv qaub (!), Pickled txiv apples thiab txhua yam ntawm berries, txhua leej txhua tus hlub ntsev kom zoo, thiab tsis tsuas yog siv. Nws, raws li twb tau hais lawm, nqaij thiab ntses yog ntsev ntau, tab sis txawv zaub thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo kuj seasoned nrog ntsev thiab vinegar: dib, plums, apples, pears, cherries. Cov tswv tsev yeej ib txwm muaj ob peb lub nkoj nrog xws li pickles, pumped los ntawm pob zeb thiab carved rau hauv dej khov.

Kua txob, mustard thiab vinegar yeej ib txwm muab tso rau ntawm lub rooj raws li qhov tsim nyog rau noj hmo, thiab txhua tus qhua noj ntau npaum li nws xav tau. Cov neeg Russians nyiam ntxiv ntsim seasonings rau txhua yam khoom noj, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog dos, "qej" thiab saffron. Vim lub loj noj qej, cov Russians, raws li cov lus ntawm cov neeg txawv teb chaws, nqa ib tug tsis kaj siab tsw nrog lawv. Cov neeg txawv teb chaws lees txim tias lawv tsis tuaj yeem noj cov kua ntses Lavxias uas muaj ntxhiab tsw, uas qee zaum tsuas muaj qej ntxiv rau ntses thiab dej.

Ntawm no nws yog ib qho tsim nyog los kho cov keeb kwm niaj hnub, uas zais kev siv cov txuj lom Lavxias, txhawm rau tshem tawm ntawm Lavxias keeb kwm kev lag luam thaum ub, kev lag luam kev sib raug zoo tsis yog nrog Persia, tab sis kuj nrog Is Nrias teb.

Ntawm cov txuj lom siv los ntawm peb cov poj koob yawm txwv, muaj ib qho ntxiv - Hing, lossis hauv cov ntsiab lus niaj hnub - asafoetida. Nws tseem nrov heev nyob rau hauv Is Nrias teb, uas nws cov kws ua zaub mov hais tias tom qab daim ntawv thov ntawm asafoetida, lub cev tuaj yeem zom cov rau tes. Qhov no yeej exaggerated, tab sis cov txuj lom no normalizes lub plab zom mov thiab tshem tawm tag nrho cov kev phem ntawm lub cev.

Asafoetida yog nyob rau hauv kev siv zoo nyob rau hauv ancient Russia thiab nws muaj ib tug heev tsis hnov tsw ntawm rotten qej. Yog li peb yuav tsum ua tsaug rau peb cov poj koob yawm txwv uas tau siv cov seasonings no rau ntau centuries, tawm hauv peb, qhov chaw ntawm genome theem, lub plab zoo nkauj, uas ua rau peb txawv ntawm cov neeg nyob hauv Europe.

Tom qab tshem tawm cov txuj lom no los ntawm keeb kwm, peb tau poob nws txoj kev siv nyob rau niaj hnub no, txawm hais tias cov qub neeg nyob hauv Central Asia tseem siv nws nyob rau qee qhov chaw thiab nws tseem loj hlob thoob plaws hauv Central Asia.

Ntawm qhov chaw: "Nature paub" koj tuaj yeem paub txog cov seasoning no: